Ok...so I decided to change my deans to 5.5mm bullet connectors in my impulse 31. My question is...should I also change the motor connectors as well? They look like maybe 3.5mm connectors. The motor wires look like maybe 16 gauge wire as compared to 10 gauge wire on my batteries. The esc/battery wires also look like 16 gauge wire. Should I change all the connectors to 5.5mm??
do I really need 5.5mm connectors
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I agree with the Chief.
I've had to resolder a couple of fellow club members motor wires & ESC wires on a couple of occasions each at the pond. Different wire each time.
We convinced them to go 5.5mm bullets all round & there's been no problem since.
Double the wire over at the end & then solder it into the bullet.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320Comment
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Trust me my bj29 an impulse have blown the stock motor wires just go to 5.5 it will rip.Last edited by macace123; 04-26-2013, 10:20 AM.Its not the boat its the driver
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Whiplash,Sprint Cat, Pursuit, 83' Miss Rock modern hydro JAE21, Dragon M11 Tunnel, Mickey Beez Jet, CF JAE21Comment
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wow....a a lot to take in. How about the deans on the esc wires...most people say there are only rated for 45 amps...hobby shop guy where I purchased the boat said deans are fine for this boat..that's what is on there now. I'm running 4000mah batteries with deans and so far no problem. I just purchased 5000mah 40c batteries that come with 5.5mm connectors. That's why I was going to change everything over...I really don't push the boat. 4 or 5 minute runs and everything seems cool after running. seems like everybody has different opinions on this. are you running all the stock connectors on your impulse J.WComment
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LOL, Just because a motor is rated for 50A, doesn't mean that is all it can draw! Leave yourself 100% headroom and you'll have less headaches. And 5.5 is the minimum size I would use in this situation. Forget the 'pigtail' - 785boats had it right. Just fold the end of the smaller wire over before shoving into the bullet - to give the solder more wire to connect with.Legend 36 sailboat, KMB Powerjet Ed Hardy Viper, ABC jet pwrd BBY Oval Master, ABC Hobby Jetski, NQD Tear Into's, HK Discovery 500, MickieBeez pwrd Jet Rigger!, Davette/Gravtix jet sprint, KMB Powerjet Pursuit, NQD pwrd Jet Catamaran!,Steam pwrd African Queen, Sidewinder airboat, Graupner Eco PowerComment
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Agreed with the posts, just go with the 5.5's. as far as the weak link way of looking at things, no matter what you do you will always have a lesser part. If you used six inch diameter golden rod(gold is the best conductor) then the circuit board would be the weak link. Ect,,,,,, what people are saying is from experience and tired of replacing deans, other connectors and just ending up with standard connectors that are well above handling the heat generated by a restrictive connector. One of the biggest things overlooked is the solder work itself. Is it a good solder joint? If not even 8mm connectors will fail. You can look at all the technical aspects you want but simple is to listen to experience. It's always a pain and dissopintment to have a connector fail and be out fishing for a boat or to field solder or even have to go home.Comment
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LOL, Just because a motor is rated for 50A, doesn't mean that is all it can draw! Leave yourself 100% headroom and you'll have less headaches. And 5.5 is the minimum size I would use in this situation. Forget the 'pigtail' - 785boats had it right. Just fold the end of the smaller wire over before shoving into the bullet - to give the solder more wire to connect with.
Just because a motor is rated for 50A, doesn't mean that is all it can draw!... So why don't you advise him to replace that whimpy stock ESC (rated at "just" 60A) with a 120A unit, you pick the brand.
I was advised to use at least a 90A speedo, I went with a 120A unit for the reasons stated in post #10. That will provide me with 140% overhead {50A continuous current + 140% = 120A} and a dash over 166.5% overhead based on a 90A surge {90+166.5%=239.85}.
I do not use Deans, I've said that several times and will continue too until it sinks in.
My dad taught me how to solder when I was 14, I've done it professionally, have Weller soldering station and a home made jig for soldering bullet connectors. Yeah, I screwed up the first several I did, figured out a system, no more probs.
In post #10 I expressed concerns about reducing the length of the motor wires based on a thread called "motor maintenance", so far everybodies so busy telling me I need 5.5 bullets, that they forgot to address that concern.Comment
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Hey Pepper,
I have 4mm on all my motor connectors. Here's the reason todays fun was cut short:
I suspect I may start switching to 5.5mm on my motors.
For what it's worth...Attached FilesThis is NOT a toy?!?Comment
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Sorry to hear that, it is no fun to have such encounter, better it happened here before you go to a race.
That looks like a bad soldering job from the factory, when I de-solder these 4mm plugs, I am always amazed at the fact that how little heat it needed for the wire to come off from the plugs. The color is wrong as well: a good solder should look silvery with smooth appearance. A so-called "cold-solder" looks like pewter, grayish with a wrinkled look. If you look closely, that yellow wire was not properly pre-tinned, meaning that there is no solder on the exposed section. proper tinning is important and done correctly the solder should stick to the wire like crazy.
Just to be absolutely fair: if those 4 mm plugs are soldered well, you wouldn't have that problem. Yes, 5.5mm is the way to go, but 4mm does not mean failure by default.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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The 4mm suck!!Comment
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