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I purchase an upgraded 1 piece drive shaft for my Pursuit. The new shaft is about a 1/4 in longer than the original. Also the notch for the drive dog is closer to the end of the shaft than the original. My question is should the drive dog and washer by closer to the stringer or is the extra length ok?
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Is that the Kintec upgrade? If it is put the drive dog in the slot already ground in the shaft and cut the flex cable to the correct length.Remember to leave a 3/16 gap between the drive dog and stinger.Although they say ready install,different collets means sometimes you have to trim to fit. I had to take a 1/4" off of mine. -
If I were in your place there are possibly two things I will consider:
1st, If your up graded cable/shaft does not have a SOLERED end (collet end), I would use Dremel with a cut off wheel and shorten the cable . Round out the edge on the cable so it will slip into the collet more easily. I have done that many times.
2nd, Now if the end is SODERED, I will look into shortening the threaded prop end. You can reposition the drive dog and make a flat spot "up stream" so to speak. But this is a more risky operation as you don't want to damage the thread , also make sure you have enough stub shaft in the stinger, if I am correct, there are two teflon bushings in there, the stub shaft needs to ride in BOTH teflon bushings!
You need to shorten only a little, don't forget you are supposed to have a gap between the drive dog and the stinger the length of the dia. of the cable, it is OK for the cable to go ALL the way and touch the collet. Your second picture shows NO gap between the drive dog and the stinger, this needs to be corrected. Reposition your drive dog.
Drive dog position on the up graded shaft ( first pic) seems ok to me. As long as you have enough thread for the lock-nut, you are ok.Too many boats, not enough time...
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Yes, it is the upgrade from Kintec. Thanks!Comment
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The 1st pic shows the drive dog where the slot is on the shaft (upgraded). That is not to much of a gap between the drive dog and the stringer? The end of the shaft is soldered. Leaving it as is leaves quite a bit threaded shaft at the end. Is that ok? Like you mentioned, I risk damaging the threads.Comment
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The Kintec shafts for that boat i have bought have the motor end of the flex cable soldered at least 3/4's of an inch.Taking a 1/4 " from this area will do no harm. How much on your shaft is soldered?Comment
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Yes, there is about 3/4' soldered at the end.Comment
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Just don't push the flex as far in to the collet leaving a gap that is equal to the width of your flex. then cut the extra threads off.white geico w/2200kv 3674 leopard 53.5mph 4s2p, geico w/ 1800kv outrunner 52mph on 4s2p, genesis w/2200kv castle 53.8 on 4s2p, impulse 31 w/2200kv castle, stock p1 and ul-1
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The issue is the shaft is to long, not to short.Comment
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I think you can follow h2o1's advice, I would be careful as the cable is being cut, the temp is very high, the solder might or might not melt away. When I cut / shorten my cable, I have made sure that I cool it off with a wet towel or dip the cable into a glass filled with water. There is a great deal of debate as to how necessary is to have the collet end soldered. My experience is that if the cable is cut correctly, the end will stay wound without the soldering. You need very little shortening, as h2o1 said, 1/4'' off will be ok, just watch out for heat build up, and get a mask and safety glasses, the steel as it's being cut, flies away and be careful , I learned the hard way.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
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Heres a pic of the cut shaft,this cable is over a year and a half old,in fact it out lasted the boat. I hit the bank full throttle after a flip pulled the water hose off and drowned my receiver. Even have it on film,when i get over it,i'll let you guys see it.1 lolComment
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