Just ordered a hobbywing genesis and need some info on upgrades

[bdp1174]

Hi I currently have a few proboat and aquacraft boats some stock and some upgraded electronics but wanted to try out the genesis hull and see how it runs.I plan on putting in a hobbwing 180 esc and a 4074 motor probably 2000 or so kv. I heard the stock flexcable is a 2 piece design and is 4mm.
Is it a pain to remove the shaft for greasing?

Will any of my props I have fit this shaft m445,x642,grim 42x55 ?

Do I need to change this out and if so what do I need to convert to a better cable?

Any other advice or suggestions are welcome.
Sorry for all the questions but boat is arriving today and I am ready to start with my build soon.

Thank You,

[TristanJones]

I run a t180
turnigy aquastar 3974 2200kv motor on 5s
the m445 is a great prop for this hull
you really want to upgrade the drive set up to 3/16th if your going to run that much prop though.
removing and greasing the stock setup is a massive PITA.
I got the coupling and shaft from promise hobby on ebay (comes with drive dog, teflon washer, prop nut, stuffing tube and liner $30)
Bent the new stuffing tube to the same as the old one and measured it up and glued it in (put glue on both sides of the hull and ruff up the stuffing tube so glue sticks to it) I used JB weld. its a good idea to get some FG matting or kevlar or whatever your flavor and reinforce the engine mount and tunnel.
awesome boat. I just put up a video in the video section, have a look how mine runs. I wouldn't recommend running the 2200kv motor on 5s, its pushing the limits, but Im ok with it at the moment for the speeds Im seeing. Do over Id use a lower KV motor (prolly around 1800) and set it up for 6s

[TristanJones]

Feel free to shot me a PM if you have any other questions

[jeffrey1]

great hull and detail work on yhis boat had mine 1 month leopard 4074,2200kv and 180 seaking b220 prop.run good. greasing shaft is easy just remove plastic tilt up screw and remove shaft. i didnt like my collet with the 2 screws one screw crushes the shaft. not good. so switched it out plus all new rear end with proboat strut and hardware.nice boat though.

[bdp1174]

Thanks for the help guys.Jeff what plastic screw do you remove and do i need to remove the strut to grease the stock flex cable.does the motor need to come out?

[bdp1174]

Boat came in today looks pretty good. Hull looks to be of pretty nice quality.I will post pics and show my build as I go.I am sure I will be replacing the flex cable soon and am wondering if OSE has parts so I can convert the cable to a better one.

[TristanJones]

yes they do. Ive already said what you need and cheapest places to get it.

I will clarify.

you want 3/16th flex and shaft (pre assembled if you get from OSE)
Id advise you remove the factory fitted stuffing tube and replace with a larger brass tube.
If you buy this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130395469121?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

and this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130807099181?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Then all you need is a strut from OSE and a shaft saver.
Be very careful when choosing your strut, it needs to match the stuffing tube, measure everything twice and double check before you order.
The stuffing tube that comes with the product in the link above is 9/32 OD so if you use that you need 9/32 ID on the strut OR if thats too hard to find, buy another length of brass tube (LHS) that will fit the 3/16 cable inside to suit the strut.

[bdp1174]

Ok thank you very much.I appreciate the info.Is it possible to do this without removing the factory stuffing tube.I saw this http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80975 and was gonna try going that route but have never cut my own flex cable yet.Will that cable .187 fit in the stock stuffing tube?

Any idea of what size the stock stuffing tube is?

[motorfixer1]

Gut the driveline and replace with one piece 3/16" shaft, 3/16" strut, and aeromarine 3/16" coupler from ose. Repace stuffing tube with appropriate size lined brass also from ose. If you run the stock cable and setup I wouldnt venture above 4s for too long as the stock driveline likes to pretzel on these and destroy the tunnel of your new boat. Stock two piece flexy pulls in out of prop shaft and whips all over the place. Your esc choice is a good one but I would go with a lower kv motor to allow you to go up on prop. You could use the stock 4mm shaft with a sleeve to adapt for your 3/16" bore props in the meantime.

My Genesis:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ild&highlight=

[izcain]

Good hulls, I have both the Genesis and the CF daytona from fightercat.

Genesis has a 180 along with a 4082 leopard 1600kv on 6s. With the M445 that had a bunch of work done it turned 63 on the gps.

Make sure you upgrade the driveline though, the Daytona is out of commission for this very reason. Had a .187 flex in it and was going across the water at a high rate of speed and hit a little chop and it must have shocked the flex a little to hard with the prop biting then unloading. It snapped the cable, and broke the motor mount. That was with it being reinforced with Kevlar! Soon it will live again though! lol

[TristanJones]

Ok thank you very much.I appreciate the info.Is it possible to do this without removing the factory stuffing tube.I saw this http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80975 and was gonna try going that route but have never cut my own flex cable yet.Will that cable .187 fit in the stock stuffing tube?

Any idea of what size the stock stuffing tube is?

That kit from OSE looks good to me. I haven't got the original stuffing tube here but Id say you would fit a 3/16 in it without a liner, not sure about with. I found mine went pretty well with the 440 metal prop off HK when stock.
If your going to put in a bigger motor I strongly recommend you reinforce around the motor mount and tunnel.
Cutting the flex cable is easy, Ive done quite a few now no problems, I just use a cut off wheel on my dremel.

[jeffrey1]

hey sorry took so long, at work.theres a plastic screw on the rudder top. i switched my strue to miss geico stuff and flex shaft that way i dont have to dissmantle the whole damn rear end of boat.gets old real fast.i also use lucas oil products white lithyum grease. speed grease is not good at all.home depot has it.but yes youll have to remove the strut to grease stock shaft.but if you upgrade youll have to cut new shaft.

[jeffrey1]

also forgot to ell you.my boat is all redone.the only stock part is the rudder,had an offset rudder on it but it was like dragging an anchor.youll want to change some things to make it really perform to your liking.miss geico parts will work great on it.

[bdp1174]

Is the geico strut a direct fit or what needs to be done to get it to fit.

[jeffrey1]

youll have to cut a very small amount off stock stuffing tube and geico shaft, but its easy just make sure you dont take off too much.in the end ,it will be alot easier to work on shaft for greasing.i also bought new sterring linkage .