6s mean machine v3

[sampit]

How well built are the new v3 FE mean machine hulls
Compared to a FC Cheetah?
thinking about building a sport setup to run a single TP 40x83mm 1450kv motor on 2 x3s Dinogy 65c packs
I would like to run this with a wire drive with the motor up front, Is that possible?
Also can anyone recommend the best hardware to suit,and a nice size prop to run in the 60mph mark I'm thinking maybe a x646
I also have a TP 4074. 2200kv and two sets off 4s 400mAh 35c packs if 4s would work better in this hull with speeds around 50

[Chilli]

Based on my experience the Fightercats have a better exterior fit and finish but the Aeromarine hulls are built a little stronger with a heavier glass cloth.

For me the bend on the stuffing tube for a cat is a little more than I would be comfortable with running a wire drive.

Both set ups should work fine in your boat. Most Mean Machines are run on 4s2P which will give you a little more run time than the 6S1P set up. The boat will handle pretty well at 50 mph if it's not too choppy. 60 is pushing it unless you just want to do straight runs. I would chose the 4s2p set up. You will still have a blast driving it. Great little cat!

[martin]

Yep as Chilli says its difficult to use wire drives on cats because of the difference in height of the motor to the strut (to much curve in the stuffing tube). You would need a .078" wire on those motors & you need shallow curved stuffing tubes to use that size wire.

[sampit]

Thanks for the input
I thought that might be the case with a wire
having second thoughts now, might just stay with another mono will suit my choppy water conditions better.

[Fluid]

I set up and ran a Mean Machine with a 1/16" and 0.078" wire drives for several years, it worked just fine. It was a J bend, not an S bend. Motor was as far forward as would fit under the hatch. Remember the MM has a shallow tunnel and runs the strut high. The bends are not that bad.




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[sampit]

Jay, If I bought a MM I was going to run my TP 4083 1450kv motor as far forward as possible do you think this setup would allow me to run a single 6s 5100 pack on the tunnel floor long ways or across, no sure on room in a MM.
other option I would have is 6S2P or 4s2p TP 4074 2200KV sports boat around 55mph would be nice

I do also like the Speedcraft p mono hull, that's relay tempting me, probably a little less forgiving and more usable for me as well, we have had windy days for months.

[martin]

Thats a lot of motor to use on 1/16" wire, personally i would be using a .078" which needs the shallower bend.

[sampit]

Good point Martin, I am not even sure if this motor will fit up the front enough yet
have you still got your MM?

[Chilli]

The raised cockpit is further back on the MM3 than on the original so you may not be able to move the motor as far up as Jay did.. There is no way you would be able to fit a 6s pack on top of the tunnel. I don't even think one could fit in the sponson. But you could fit 3S packs in the sponsons.

Unless you have your heart set on a 6S setup, my suggestion would be to do the 4074 2200 on on 4S2P. It's a great match for that boat.

[Rumdog]

Get the cheetah. It will handle rougher water much better, and as good as any mono it's size.

[NativePaul]

My MM is a V1 I think, the moulding is rather unimpressive to say the least as is my Sprintcat .40, but they both run very nicely which is what counts to me, and are erring on the side of overbuilt not underbuilt so there is no worries about being too weak for purpose, or need for re-enforcing, Aeromarine may have stepped up the mark since mine were built, although my SC.40 is only 3 years old, judging by my 2 I would expect a Cheetah to be a moulded better, but most threads seem to be re-enforcing the bottoms with carbon, so it may be a more labour intensive build.


My hatch is a modern offshore one but it was made by a member here before Aeromarine came out with their new one, it looks the same to me but I don't know if the moulds were sold to Aeromarine and it is the same, or they just saw there was a market for it and made one similar. I have an L size 36mm motor in mine for Hydro2 and a flex shaft (I bought it used) but A .78 wire could be used, the bend wouldn't be too bad at all. Where the motor is at the moment there is about an inch of vertical clearance, and if the end was kept at the same height there would be room for another 2 inches of motor or to move it forward that much and still fit under the cockpit. If a different motor mount was used I could drop it 5mm and then it would fit under the flat of the hatch or the deck, if it was moved forwards that would lower the angle of the motor and any length 36mm motor could be used easily, I don't have a 40mm motor out of a boat so I cant test that for you, but there is about 50mm of space between the tunnel and the flat parts of the hatch between my motor and the front of the hatch.

I normally run with a Turnegy 30C 4s 5800mAh pack to the right of the motor but as seen here a 6s pack will fit in the same place. Likewise I can fit 6s of the same in the left sponson, although the location of my kill switch stops me putting them any further forward (not that I need to). There is also enough room for a 6 of the same longitudinally on the tunnel next to the servo (the 5800s poke out above the transom but as you can see the transom is lower than the sides and the hatch covers the gap, they are level with the sides so the hatch doesn't sit flush by the thickness of the hatch, but it is a tiny bit so will flex and still tape down fine, the red cells are an Overlander 25c 4s2p 5400pack and sit flush with the transom so they have a little headroom under the hatch). though if I didn't have the other cells in there I would have to move the motor further forward and/or use a bigger motor to get the CoG right with them there . In mine there is not enough room between the stuffing tube and the servo for a 6s pack to go transversely but there is room to move the servo back and the motor forward so it could be made to fit.



I didn't think to take a Photo when I had my camera out as I don't have any 6s or 2s packs but my Thunderpower 65c 4s 5000mAh packs are a little narrower and thinner, but a little longer than my Overlanders and 6s of them would easily fit in all 3 locations you see too and would fit, the ETTI, VB, & Zippy Naviga legal <560g 4000-4500mAh 6s packs are smaller than the Turnegy 5800mAh 4s packs I used with 2s packs to make up 6s, and will fit all 4 positions mentioned as is.

[Fluid]

The raised cockpit is further back on the MM3 than on the original so you may not be able to move the motor as far up as Jay did...

Actually my 56mm motors fit fine under both the original and the "modern" hatch. I ran the boat on 6S2P with an AQ 1500 Kv motor and it ran great. The higher voltage gave a lower amp draw thus lower temps - as long as the prop was kept on the smaller side. A lower Kv motor would have been even better.



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[Chilli]

Good to know. Didnt want Sam to run into any unforeseen problems.

[Fluid]

I didn't mean to sound like 6S is the only way to go, I ran the MM on 4S too. And wire would still work if you had to move the motor an inch or so aft.

The only Cheetah I've seen was very thin and pretty rough. It handled fine, but no better than the SprintCat it ran with. It would handle rougher water better than the MM due to its larger size.



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[sampit]

Thanks again for all the help and info, thanks Paul for the chapter and pictures, Im going to sit back this time and have a good think as to what way to go, probably single 6s pack on the tunnel floor or 2x3s packs in the sponsons and the 4082 1450kv motor
where would we all be without this info that comes from OSE.