Tweet
yeah but did you calibrate it with the throttle set to full?
-
-
Yes, I did. Like I said, the next time I power up, I always had to turn down the throttle trim somewhat, but now with knob in the middle for initial program-calibration, I no longer had to do it. I tested out with these two methods and when I pull full throttle, the motor RPM is the same.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2Too many boats, not enough time...
Comment
-
persistence paid this time...finally set the throttle control after about 30 trys. Had throttle trim in center and ch. 2 set to neutral.Boat even goes into fail safe after transmitter is shut down. Took it out for a very short run in which I think the battery's hit the Lipo cut off...ran pretty fast but had a bounce so I eased off then think I hit low voltage and powered down. Besides temp checks what else would you guys recommend I double-check or adjust before I run her a bit harder? I did have a little worry about the motor.... Is there a good way besides "eyeballing" the motor height in relation to the flex-shaft. I just eyeballed it. but wondered if its wrong if it can really hurt the boat?Comment
-
Your strut is too low. Period. It needs to come way up. The prop is buried in the water, and this causes the lvc to kick in premature. Ask me how I know.Comment
-
Put it on the table and raise the strut up so there's like 1/8 to 3/16 between the bottom of the strut and the table. Trust me. The bounce will go away too. The prop is too deep the way you got it nowComment
-
Glad you are able to set the throttle. It can be tricky, I used to wait too long after the 2-beeps during the programing process and it won't program, learned from mistake and now I let go of the trigger as soon as I hear confirmation. A couple of times I wasn't even sure I heard the two beeps and I let go of the trigger, it still programed---I am not recommanding this practice but my experience is that if one waits long enough to hear another beep, it won't get programed properly.
As far as motor/flex cable height alignment, you don't need to worry too much, you KNOW it is not right if the cable doesn't go straight into the collet when you are re-inserting it after maintainance work is done. All my cables go STRAIGHT into the collet. You can adjust the motor two ways: the two screws you can make height changes and there is even a tiny bit of lateral movement you can do if you "wiggle" the motor so one side is slightly higher or lower than the other. The mount to the wood platform can be adjusted also, if the motor is not centered. Be careful not to strip the metal blindnuts in the wooden platform.
I am sure you already know that you are supposed to leave a gap the diameter of the cable between the drive dog and the back of your strut. The cable will tighten up once under load and you need to take this into consideration.Last edited by tlandauer; 03-27-2013, 01:40 AM.Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
-
What is the benefit in raising the strut? Im interested in learning how raising or lower strut effects boat performance.Comment
-
lowering the prop into the water will cause more load on your system. visa versa, raising it causes less load. since a prop has a certain amount of lift, you want the boat to ride on the ride pads more than teetering on the prop. ive found on cats having the prop higher than ride pads works better.
im sure someone will be able to explain the physics of it better than iComment
-
Thanks for all the help guys. Made 3 runs in the past 2 days and man is this boat a lot faster. On third run flipped it over but no damage. Is there a way to lower the hull closer to the water?... close to top speed the boat has a tendency want to flip. Some sort of counter weight or?? Will raising the strut do just the opposite? Havent messed with it yet. Also had an issue with the collet not locking down and spinning on the flex shaft in which I had to go retrieve the boat. Think I didnt have it as tight as it should have been but heard you shouldnt have to "crank it down" to keep it from spinning.Comment
-
Raising the strut always helps, where is it now?
Also try to get the strut level as positive and negative camber will either raise or lower the bow. Usually if the boat wants to flip I raise the strut and keep the prop from digging in too much.Comment
-
You shouldn't have to "crank" the collet but obviously it's not tight enough. Some of the cheaper ones will break if you go too far. Im using stainless steel ones these days. Pretty hard to break en if not impossibleComment
-
Im going to try and raise the strut as get it level. No idea about camber...is that the angle of the strut?Comment
-
the collet will bind and having galling issues after usage, a trick I learned from FLUID is to get the so-called anti seize compound from auto store, put a dab on the threaded part, you will not have to force it any more and it prolongs the life of your collet. I learned the hard way, happened to my DF 45" Sniper running 12s and a Neu 2230!
Too many boats, not enough time...Comment
-
Yeah the angle. I always Start with it level, then got from there. But on my cats level is where it always seems to want to stayComment
Comment