metric stuffing tube to .250 ID strut

[JimClark]

Ok my stuffing tube is .240 in diameter. I am racking my brain to find a good way to to attach it to the speedmaster strut that has a 1/4 id hole. Normally I like to use some sort of loctite to secure the tube to the strut but I think the hole is too sloppy for that. Racking my brain and can't come up with any good idea. Anyone got a good idea? Don't really want to rip the tube out and replace it with 1/4 tube.
Thanks in advance for ideas
Jim

[iamandrew]

you have a dodgy chinese one, thats probably the issue

[tlandauer]

Jim, forgive me if I am full of BS, I read Tyler's reply to your other thread, so I assume you are putting 1/4" K&S brass tube in the Speed Master strut, are you going to leave a bit in the front so the stuffing tube "mates" into the cone? Can you find something thin to wrap aroung the tube? Like Hockey Tape? I assume heat shrink tube is too thick? I know you may not like this Mickey-Mouse idea, but in my opinion as long as the tube has enough length to go in the coned area, then it need not be fixed on. ( loctite'd)
I could be totally wrong and/or have misunderstood your issue.

[tlandauer]

Never mind, I re-read your other thread, seems that you have a different setup with your strut. Sorry to clog the thread.

[martin]

Done this type of thing many times including when a teflon liner is loose in the stuffing tube & turning & also where the stuffing tube is loose going into the strut. I wrap the tube with plumbers ptfe tape, you wrap it over size as it squashes down nice to form a good fit.

[Chilli]

How about some 3M 5200? The 5200 would take a couple weeks to cure. On the down side, once that sucker cures the stuffing tube will never come out... unless you drill it out.

[lenny]

Have any pictures you can put up of it Jim ?

[viper1]

Some grease -or even better if you have it- mold release on the stuffing tube, put it in with some JB-weld, after that you have tight fit, and removable.

[Southwest]

Jim, how about using plumbing teflon tape and then ca it! I use teflon tape for couplers where motor stems are a shade smaller than coupler holes and no vibration comes from usage. Suggestion only! Now for couplers, this is temp, till a correct coupler can arrive at door step. Same for stuffing tube till parts arrive.

[lenny]

Viper1

Or,
How about using some goop on it and a piece of shrink wrap.
Just sand the tube and strut area first,
And than take a piece of shrink wrap a little bigger than the strut Od,
And put it on the tube before you goop it together,
Than when dry put the shrink wrap over them and heat it.

[longballlumber]

Don't really want to rip the tube out and replace it with 1/4 tube.
Jim

I know it's more time, but fixing it right way now may save you many headache’s in the future. When installed correctly the speedmaster strut/stuffing tube system works flawless and is a solid system. My vote is to fix it now...

Later,
Mike

[RaceMechaniX]

Jim,

.010" is not outrageous to try and secure with loctite. Use #638 which is designed for loose fitting parts up to .015". It can always be undone by putting a little heat to it.

Other options are include finding copper .008 shim stock and trimming to form a wrap around shim.

TG

[JimClark]

Thanks lots of good suggestions I'm kind of liking the Loctite #638 sounds worth a try for sure.

[ray schrauwen]

If you can get some .005" brass sheet you can form it into a tube and shim it to perfection.

[TheShaughnessy]

Fix it right once and be done. With a little heat the stock stuffing tube will come out fairly easily. Use a heat gun or stick you soldering iron in the tube for a min. Epoxy becomes pliable and you can just wiggle it out. 1/4 inch tube bends easily by hand with the preformed little ramp the mystics have built in. Add epoxy or jb weld and you have a permanent fix you no loner have to worry about.