Order castle link computer tuning and run torque test. This software is free. Esc plug is 20 bucks. Awesome features. Here's how you conduct torque test on castle motors.
1. Make sure the ESC's switch is off.
2. Unplug battery.
3. Connect Castle Link.
4. Open Software.
5. Turn on the motor test in Castle Link software.
6. Update settings.
7. Close software.
8. Unplug Castle Link.
9. Move or remove the motor so that it can spin freely without engaging the spur and pinion gears.
10. Plug in the receiver.
11. Plug in battery.
12. Turn on the controller.
13. Turn on the ESC's switch.
14. Wait for the ESC to start up and give the lights that indicate test mode is ready. (If you get normal startup tones and then only a single yellow light and the motor runs normally rather than like in step 15, you've done something wrong, start over.)
15. Hold full throttle until the motor stops (about 3 seconds).
16. Turn off the switch.
17. Unplug the battery.
18. Unplug the receiver and plug in the Castle Link.
19. Start the software.
20. You should now be able to see something that says the motor test worked.
21. If you use the feature for printing the settings, you will see your motor KV on the printout.
Thanks Dave!! That's the best way to answer a "simple" question i've ever heard! In reality, talking FE anything there probably is no real simple answers due to all the variables at hand, but a general idea is what myself, and i'm sure a few others, are looking for asking "simple" questions. I never would have guessed in million years i'd be into electric boats now after many years of nitro-boat running/racing, but i really like this FE stuff, things have changed alot in the last 20 years LOL! With that said, there is quite a bit of learning to do after you break out from the RTR world. Very interesting that you got just a 1.5 mph difference, that's barely noticable if at all! With all the info i'm gonna stay with the 1800kv, i know it works good so might as well stick with it!
The 1800kv is a pretty flexible kv for the larger mono like the Spartan-- you can run it on either a 4S or 5S config. My son runs his 31" Triton on a castle 1800kv motor on a 4S config (4S2P)-- he uses an x642 prop for sport running, and the boat scoots pretty darn as fast on an x646. We are also able to run the boat on 5S with that motor with the x642 prop.
Spartan 6s 6000 mah bats. Castle cap bank too. Dual water pick up trimmed nicely. 42 55 grim racer prop. Sharpened balanced. Problem. Motor cuts out a full throttle. Brand new set up. Runs very cool. What is doing this?
What motor and esc are you running in it on 6s ?
And how long does it run at full throttle before it start cutting out ?
Also does it cut out going from you or coming to you at full throttle ?
Try some other packs with a 30c to 40c rating,
Turnigy OR Sky or blue lipo's.
Do you run with anybody else that you could try their packs and test it with.
With no low volt,
I would run for 1 minute at full throttle and bring it in fast and check temps on everything.
And see what is getting hot first,
Like I said try some different cells to.
Sorry to throw in another variable, Castle software setup is brilliant and my favourite way of programming their Esc's, but in the past I've had a similar problem after upgrading to newer firmware which had a bug, thought all my batteries had gone bad! flashing it backward solved it.
Just a thought, assuming you are using a CC ESC...
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