P mono suggestion

[crfabbro1]

I'm looking to put a P mono together for heat racing. Being fairly new to FE ( nitro for 30 years) I need suggestions for the motor and speed controller. Not afraid to spend what's necessary !

[Chilli]

Welcome Chris, For P-Mono a popular higher end set up would be the Castle 240 LV or Castle Ice 240 speed controller . The newer Ice has been an excellant controller, but I've been running the 240 for over two years with no problems. For motor the Neu 1521 1.5D is probably the most popular choice and the Neu 1515 1Y a close second. I've run both motors and they both run well. The 1521 has a little more power with less rpm so a larger prop is in order (447-450). The 1515 spins a little higher and it's popular heat racing props are in the 640-445 range.

What hull are you thinking of using??

[HTVboats]

Mike is spot on as for motor and esc. I have run the 1515 1Y and have a 1521 1.5D that hasn't neen tried in a "P" yet. My question if anyone knows is will the 1521 make a full course heat (6+ laps) with 5000ma batteries. My 1515 makes it on 3000-4000 ma's. How much more will a 1521 D wind take?
Mic

[D. Newland]

Mic-You're better off running 10,000 mAh on board for a full on P Mono boat. I only use 5000 mAh when heat racing, but I like the better voltage under load that 10,000 mAh on board gives. The batteries and ESC are happier and the weight is a plus.

I could prop my boat slower and only use a single 5000 mAh pack, but I'd then be running P-Ltd speeds.

[Chilli]

Are you talking mono's Mic or for a tunnel application?

The 1515 versus 1521 draw depends how hard you push your equipment. My mono is propped conservatively because we race with nitro boats in D12. In my application the 1521 1.5D with a 447/3 draws about the same as my 1515 1Y did with a 640. Speeds are comparable. That being said, if you start really loading up the motor, I'm sure the 1521 will outdraw the 1515.

Like David said, for P-mono, 4s2p is the way to go. Your equipment will be happier, your packs will last longer and the extra weight helps keep your boat on the water.

[crfabbro1]

Lots of good information, thanks! The hull I'll be using is my own design, and the molds should be ready in a few weeks ( Iam the original designer/builder of the Microburst and Speedmaster monos). I built a 40" Q mono a few months ago and the FE stuff now has me hooked!

[crfabbro1]

Chilli, you say that you race with nitro stuff, 21's? Are they comparable in speed, and what speed does a fast P run. Our 21 nitro's run in the 50mph range in heat racing trim.

[siberianhusky]

LOL have to slow down the electric boats so the nitro guys don't get mad and quite playing!
I was out playing with my nitro boats one day when a guy showed up with a brushless electric setup, two weeks later I had my first electric boat and haven't looked back. I couldn't believe what I saw when he first pulled the trigger, I'm sure my jaw hit the river bank!

[HTVboats]

Are you talking mono's Mic or for a tunnel application?

The 1515 versus 1521 draw depends how hard you push your equipment. My mono is propped conservatively because we race with nitro boats in D12. In my application the 1521 1.5D with a 447/3 draws about the same as my 1515 1Y did with a 640. Speeds are comparable. That being said, if you start really loading up the motor, I'm sure the 1521 will outdraw the 1515.

Like David said, for P-mono, 4s2p is the way to go. Your equipment will be happier, your packs will last longer and the extra weight helps keep your boat on the water.

Mike,
Comparing motor draw is a question for both OB tunnel & mono. In this case I have been running P mono with a 1515 and using 2 8000ma 2S packs in series. I just don't trust a stiff prop (m545 in this case) and 5000ma's capacity. From my tunnel experience adding weight kills performance so it isn't in my mindset without more power and that brings me to switcing to a 1521 size motor and what the extra wattage will draw. Obviously in a mono the weight offset keeps the boat planted on the water for higher speeds. Top end aside it comes down to will light weight accelerate faster? Remember multi engine dragsters? Guess thats what keeps racing fun, choices to outengineer yourself.
Mic

Some discussion here started on nitro vs FE and I will start a new discussion thread rather than hijack this one. Like to see the title match the content better

[Chilli]

Chris, Glad to have you aboard. It's always nice to have more hull choices available for the FE community. I would say the first time I ran, I had a 5mph advantage on Dick Tyndall's B-Mono and he won the district championship that year. We have a speed parity rule in the district so once the advantage was realized, I propped down to match his boat. I'll save any further comment on running comined classes for another thread.

I got you Mic, We have all the room in the world for 4s2p in most P-monos. The extra weight helps keep the boat stabil and with all that extra battery capacity, the packs live a long happy life. Not burning up the speed controller is the major concern in a heat racing set up . The P-Lim Tunnel and Hydro have been popular FE classes but some of us are ready to step it up to full P power. Now the battery configuration becomes the concern in the hydros because of lack of room. Not only do we have to worry about battery size and capacity, but added weight and CG. I'm running into this problem for my record ovals JAE that I want to convert to a P-Hydro heat racer. She is already configured for a Neu motor up to 1521 but I'm scratching my head trying to figure out what battery to use.

[HTVboats]

At the end of the day with a large budget you can put a pretty stout motor,esc and 10000ma cells in a P mono. I kind of like the challengs of a 1515/1521 and maybe a 240CC made to go fast, but a 1527 and a $600+ESC may crush me. But thats racing and I will still show up with the boat if I have a chance to drive or setup better. Not that I am capable but the one thing I know is you quit when you know the wall is just too high.
What battery and speedy makes P and even Q OB tunnels a challenge as it seems above a 1521 is not practical. I can't tell you how many radio boxes and batteries I have invested in that just didn't work out. I can see a hydro in the same dilema. We may find we use similar equipment. I built the mono cause there are races I can make. If P hydro was run I have a lot of equipment that would plug in.
Mic

[Doug Smock]

Mic we've had a P Mono show up in SOWEGA a time or two with a 1527 / 40.160 and the 1515s 1521s/ CCs held their own. (you still have to drive it)
Personally I like the 1515. I'll take more RPM with a smaller wheel over fewer RPM and a larger wheel on a P Mono on the big course hands down,(drive-ability) but that's just me.

[ray schrauwen]

They aren't available at this time but the FC 4092-2200kv is really fun in my P-mono. I run a SF200, 2x Turnigy 25C 5800's and a 43mm 2 blade cnc prop. Very fast boat. A little hairy at times but, it's a DF33 hull.

Same size as a 1521 but, 2200kv instead of 1900'ish.

[RaceMechaniX]

No need for huge power in the P class, the hull length limits really prohibit putting excess power in there. A 1521 1.5D or 1515 1Y are both excellent choices. The 1515 size is also available from Castle in the same KV at a very reasonable price. The Castle 240 Ice or older hydra 240 are solid performers. Many also run the T180 from Turnigy/Seaking with good results. It's very easy to overpower in this class so it comes down to set-up and driving ability.

Tyler

[ray schrauwen]

+100%

No need for huge power in the P class, the hull length limits really prohibit putting excess power in there. A 1521 1.5D or 1515 1Y are both excellent choices. The 1515 size is also available from Castle in the same KV at a very reasonable price. The Castle 240 Ice or older hydra 240 are solid performers. Many also run the T180 from Turnigy/Seaking with good results. It's very easy to overpower in this class so it comes down to set-up and driving ability.

Tyler