Ca glue and building question

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  • crudeau
    Member
    • Jun 2011
    • 58

    #1

    Ca glue and building question

    Putting together my mini sprint. I have my two epoxies. 30min and finishing. In the build it says to use ca glue. Can I use any ca glue like available at lowes. Loctite brand? Also when using the ca am I coating the whole length of the joints with ca or just "spot weld" it together and then when you apply the 30 min epoxy it seeps into the joints and completes the seam. First build so I want to make its right
  • Fluid
    Fast and Furious
    • Apr 2007
    • 8012

    #2
    Don't count on epoxy to "seep" anywhere. Thin CA will seep, does the build manual say to use thin or thick CA? Either follow the directions using a quality CA from your LHS, or coat the joining surfaces with epoxy and clamp.


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    • Southwest
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2012
      • 274

      #3
      Ok, on precut or lazer cut parts, don't put ca on where lazer leaves burnt edges as it won't hold very good. Best thing is to use sandpaper on the burnt edges and then use ca. I tried Gorilla ca and really impressed with it. Don't need much Gorilla glue. I also used Gorilla glue ( regular ) on joints and they stayed strong. The boats i made with wood with Gorilla regular glue didn't come loose but regular ca, they did. Just my experience. Reading your posting again, spot weld works and you can turn your project over or around and then put a bead on both sides at the edges to make sure it is right, just an insurance. Sorry for long winded but want you to succeed in your project. I want to do a mini sprint or a renegade rigger later this winter.

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      • siberianhusky
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Dec 2009
        • 2187

        #4
        I use only epoxy, used properly it's strong and doesn't add much weight. Don't need globs of it just a light film as long as the joints are tight, you don't need big blobs of squeeze out. I use very little CA period, wood glue and epoxy on planes.
        Not sure what the nasty component is but a fair number of people develop a sensitivity to CA over time, so it must build up in the body somehow I guess.
        Been thinking about trying the polyurethane gorilla glue for some things.
        I use West epoxy simply because I have two local sources for it. Never tried the small bottles of 30 minute epoxy from the hobby shop. I build enough out of wood that it isn't economical for me.
        If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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        • martin
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2010
          • 2887

          #5
          The only part i use CA for on the Mini Sprint is the narrow strips of ply that sit under the deck around the hatch opening, the rest is glued with Z poxy 30 min & clamped, epoxy will not wick into joints you need to apply then fit together. Joe @ Zippkits also recomends Z poxy, i believe Doug Smock who builds an awefull lot of JAE for customers also uses Z poxy.

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          • martin
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Aug 2010
            • 2887

            #6
            When bonding in the stuffing tube & boom tubes through the tub you can add some micro ballons to the epoxy which thickens it a bit & helps bond things together in these areas.

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            • ray schrauwen
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Apr 2007
              • 9471

              #7
              Originally posted by siberianhusky
              I use only epoxy, used properly it's strong and doesn't add much weight. Don't need globs of it just a light film as long as the joints are tight, you don't need big blobs of squeeze out. I use very little CA period, wood glue and epoxy on planes.
              Not sure what the nasty component is but a fair number of people develop a sensitivity to CA over time, so it must build up in the body somehow I guess.
              Been thinking about trying the polyurethane gorilla glue for some things.
              I use West epoxy simply because I have two local sources for it. Never tried the small bottles of 30 minute epoxy from the hobby shop. I build enough out of wood that it isn't economical for me.
              Cyanide I think. CYANOCRYLATE. Made from seaweed but, it's toxic.

              I gave up on CA for quality builds. Just for tacking if at all.
              Nortavlag Bulc

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              • ray schrauwen
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2007
                • 9471

                #8
                You can get epoxy to "wick" into joints by carefully using a heat gun. I did it that way on my Whiplash.

                Always sand the laser cut edges.
                Nortavlag Bulc

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                • JonD
                  Senior Member
                  • Jun 2011
                  • 129

                  #9
                  Originally posted by martin
                  When bonding in the stuffing tube & boom tubes through the tub you can add some micro ballons to the epoxy which thickens it a bit & helps bond things together in these areas.
                  I have also found Milled Fiberglass added to West Epoxy systems to be extremely useful to thicken the epoxy to a paste that doesn't slump, and I believe it increase the joint strength considerably. Using this a lot now.
                  Tower Hobbies carries an expansive collection of RC cars, RC airplanes, RC boats, model trains, sot cars, and supplies for all hobbyists.

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                  • martin
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Aug 2010
                    • 2887

                    #10
                    I also at times use West resin with fibres added for certain things but its not in my opinion practical to build wooden boats for general bonding an entire boat. You would be waiting a long time for each part bonded to set before being able to proceed with your build.Re wicking epoxy yes you will get a small wicking but no where near enough to travel accross the entire width off the joints on a JAE build.

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                    • siberianhusky
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Dec 2009
                      • 2187

                      #11
                      The key is to plan your build and have lots of small squares and clamps, just did 95% of both sponson framing on my Whiplash in one sitting. By the next evening it will be cured and ready for the next part of the build.
                      If you glue only one joint then wait it will take forever, I dry fit as much as possible with the clamping all figured out, mix up some epoxy glue and clamp.
                      I was also under the impression that CA is not exactly waterproof, the same way 5 minute epoxy isn't really waterproof, just water resistant.
                      I also believe epoxy joints will flex a little bit before failing while CA just breaks. I don't think my JAE 12 would have survived if it was built with CA, it's nailed a few bouys, broken sponson tubes etc, all with just some scratches in the clear coat.
                      If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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                      • martin
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Aug 2010
                        • 2887

                        #12
                        Ive found when skinning foam sponsons using clamps you can compress the thin ply into the foam & it will set like that. A tip i was given is to use masking tape to pull the ply down, i do all of mine like this now as it works very well indeed. This is also the prefferd methered used by some that build customers boats.

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                        • antslake
                          RC nut
                          • Nov 2010
                          • 214

                          #13
                          I have been using flexible CA on my boats. Seems to not crack as much as regular CA. Good stuff.

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                          • siberianhusky
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Dec 2009
                            • 2187

                            #14
                            Skinning my 1/10 shovelnose I used duct tape to pull the 1/16 ply around the compound curves on the sponsons, held great. I use a lot of weight for flat things. Have a thick glass sheet, use diving weights and small cast weight lifting weights. Great for putting the bottom on hulls, nice flat surface.
                            Also easy to scrape glue off it. It's just a used piece from a glass/window place, they salvage what they can out of broken windows etc.
                            So many strange shapes and angles we have to glue that at some point you use just about every trick in the book for holding things.
                            I love my hydro and rigger hulls, luckily I also love the building side of the hobby!
                            Plans in progress to step up to a 1/8 hydro!
                            If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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