Help reading ESC Data

[worriedsick4u]

I ran a SS45 with 1527/1Y/S 6S2P X452. ESC temps were 130. Motor was 105. And Batteries were 99. Here is the data chart. What the hell does it mean?
SS45.jpg

[worriedsick4u]

ESC is a Hydra Ice 2. Here's a better picture of the graph.PTSS45data.jpg

[siberianhusky]

Somehow you should be able to choose what is displayed on the graph, too much stuff on there to read the chart.
With the eagletree I usually only look at a couple things at a time, main one is amps and volts. I don't bother logging much else anymore. If you amperage is within reason for a given setup then your temps should be fine.
In the software you should be able to choose what is displayed.

[worriedsick4u]

Thanks. How's this? Were my temps too high?
ampsvoltage.jpg

[siberianhusky]

From the two graphs I think your running about 100 amps with some spikes up to near 150.
Just shy of 30000 rpm you voltage sagged a bit more than an amp under load.
Your batteries and motor are fine,ESC is getting toasty.
What kind of batteries?

[worriedsick4u]

Batteries are Nano Tech 5000mAh 45-90C. Should I prop down or drop the timing to normal? Castle Ice Hydra 2 does not have the option of dropping the timing one number at at time. Thanks

[siberianhusky]

LOL This is where I stop giving advise, I've never used that setup, I'm not sure why a 200 amp esc is heating up that much unless I'm reading the amp part of the graph wrong.
Those are the same kind of numbers I'm hitting with a swordfish 120 running 4s and a 1512, esc is about 100, batteries about 110 same for the motor.
Is the cooling working good?

[worriedsick4u]

Cooling works awesome. Shooting up out of exit port about 2 feet. Motor and esc have seperate cooling. Thanks for your help so far. Maybe somebody else will chime in with some good advice. I appreciate you knowing when to stop. Thanks.

[worriedsick4u]

LOL This is where I stop giving advise, I've never used that setup, I'm not sure why a 200 amp esc is heating up that much unless I'm reading the amp part of the graph wrong.
Those are the same kind of numbers I'm hitting with a swordfish 120 running 4s and a 1512, esc is about 100, batteries about 110 same for the motor.
Is the cooling working good?

This is what happened to my last ESC with this setup. Keep in mind, that ESC was a problem from day one.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-up&highlight=

[jcald2000]

Drop the timing to normal, this will bring the ESC temp down some.
You want to log amps (look for the small a), volts and temp.

[worriedsick4u]

Drop the timing to normal, this will bring the ESC temp down some.
You want to log amps (look for the small a), volts and temp.

Thanks. I checked last night and it is set at normal. So do I prop down or drop timing again?
voltsamptemp.jpg

[Fluid]

Without knowing how you are running the boat it is tough to tell what is happening. Are you using WOT all the time, only running for short bursts at WOT then backing off, running around an oval ( big oval or small oval) so the amp spikes correspond to the corners?

Based on the temperature readings alone - your ESC temperature is just fine as long as you only run for the 100 seconds or so shown in the last set of data. The peak ESC temp is a function of how long you run. Don't let anyone tell you that 170* is too hot, that is an internal temperature logged while running - it does not correspond to what the IR gun shows on the outside of the ESC several minutes after the run. The ICE240LV in my 6S sport hydro peaks at 155* to 165* after a one mile race heat depending on the water temp - that is for around 90-100 seconds of run time. In my 4S race boats the temperature has reached well over 200* in the summer without ESC problems. Castle says 250* is the maximum although I'd not want to get there. Bottom line - you don't need to reduce the amp draw unless you want to run longer.

You are seeing some voltage depression at ~150 amps but nothing serious, so the packs seem to be handling it okay. We really need to see the ripple current to know for certain.



.

[worriedsick4u]

Without knowing how you are running the boat it is tough to tell what is happening. Are you using WOT all the time, only running for short bursts at WOT then backing off, running around an oval ( big oval or small oval) so the amp spikes correspond to the corners?

Based on the temperature readings alone - your ESC temperature is just fine as long as you only run for the 100 seconds or so shown in the last set of data. The peak ESC temp is a function of how long you run. Don't let anyone tell you that 170* is too hot, that is an internal temperature logged while running - it does not correspond to what the IR gun shows on the outside of the ESC several minutes after the run. The ICE240LV in my 6S sport hydro peaks at 155* to 165* after a one mile race heat depending on the water temp - that is for around 90-100 seconds of run time. In my 4S race boats the temperature has reached well over 200* in the summer without ESC problems. Castle says 250* is the maximum although I'd not want to get there. Bottom line - you don't need to reduce the amp draw unless you want to run longer.

You are seeing some voltage depression at ~150 amps but nothing serious, so the packs seem to be handling it okay. We really need to see the ripple current to know for certain.



.

Thank you. Here is the ripple. The last run on that log I did 9 laps at full throttle. Run time was close to 2 minutes. Got carried away. I was having fun.
withripple.jpg