Whiplash20 build question

[siberianhusky]

Setup will be UL-1 motor, pair of 2s Grimracer or Enerland 5000mah packs, whichever esc is handy when I put it together.
Question is how much if any lead are people adding to the tips of the sponsons for their LSH setups?
Lipos will be slid as far into the nose section as possible, motor will go wherever it has to to get the CG about an inch behind the sponson.
Thinking with the long potential stuffing tube run this one would be a good candidate for a wire drive as I can keep the bend as gradual as possible.
Be speedmaster hardware and the Blazer turnfin.
Any thoughts from people who have built one or raced against a well set up one?
The UL-1 hatch conversion build is a nice one!
Think I have a good idea for an easy to tape hatch for mine.
Cheers and thanks.

[detox]

Try to build it as lightweight as possible for the lower powered LSH UL-1 motor/esc combo. Add weight to lefthand sponson tip only if any. Build up your sponson ride pad surface about 1/8" for less drag against bottom side of hull. Two Grimracer 5000mah 2s packs would be perfect. The smaller 4200mah packs will not be enough for a six lap heat race (too much voltage drop equals lower speeds neer end of heat). Wire drive is too much trouble. I would use the .150 brazed Hughey cable or something that is not glued to prop shaft. I use the easy tape UL-1 hatch and nose cone on my whip.

[HydroMike]

IMG_20120115_212718.jpg this is what did

[siberianhusky]

I've never used a wire drive myself, but I always use Hughey cables, have for years and nothing beats them!
Interesting about building up the ridepads, I noticed it sits a lot closer to the table than my current hull. It's a 1/12 Pay N Pak that I made some changes to for brushless and lipos, it runs great, last week a guy running a UL-1 couldn't believe we were running the same prop and motor. Now that it's dialed in I can hug the turn flat out with no worries.
I read you build on both of your boats.
I build pretty light so I'm not worried there, I would like to get away with no weight but if I have to add it I'd prefer to have it inside.
5000mah is what I'm running in all my sprint setups, works out about perfect. I've never run the Grim packs but with the changes in shipping of lipos I'm kinda stuck with what I can get from HK or in Canada or I pay idiotic brokerage charges through UPS. Adds a lot to the price of TP or Hyperions. I can get Enerlands from HK now, I've been running them a couple years now and really like them in Spec setups. Can get the Grims locally now so I'm giving them a try for my next packs.

[detox]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]83526[/ATTACH] this is what did

Nothing wrong with that. Most everyone builds them using the Whiplash cowl.

[siberianhusky]

My idea is more like what Mike does for his hydro kit cowling, still gotta wait for hardware before I start actually building. I like to have everything on hand before I start, no surprises that way.
I'm big on having a full plan of attack then I get down to building.
So far all I've done is give the edges a light scuffing to remove the burnishing and done a dry fit to look at thing and begin getting an idea.
Unless I get something cleared up before I start this one I'll have 3 scratch builds on the go! Heading into the second year of my 1/10 scale build, not a race boat anymore went overboard on details like working wet sponsons and such now looking for scale cleats for the deck! Found scale sized nickel silver half round to make the rub rail. Pretty much down to the cowling and varnishing the mahogany on that one.

[HydroMike]

As long as it works . I'll be glad

Nothing wrong with that. Most everyone builds them using the Whiplash cowl.