Fightercat 16s 200 Amp

[sampit]

Can any one help programming a Fightercat 16s 200Amp esc using the FC programme box
I bought a Hv ubec also as this esc has no built in bec but, i can't get the programme box to light up to programe it
I have two output leads on the UBEC one I have conected to a 800 mah 4s to power it that lights the beck up ok but my rx lights up and goes out
not sure if I conect the other output to the p/box or I that us for running twins
I conect a 3s battery and I just get beeps
I always run escs with built in becs

Cheers for any help

[carlcisneros]

FighterCat ESC Instructions (latest version).doc

ok here goes:
(make sure the MOTOR and the ESC are connected before going on)
1. disconnect the receiver from the battery and esc.
2. connect a receiver battery to the plug on the esc program box closest to the buttons on the face of the box.
(that little square wave looking pic on the box plug is the signal wire (white, yellow, or orange)
3. connect the esc lead (3 wire) to the other plug on the program box furthest from the buttons on the face of the box.
4. connect your 3s pack to the esc and wait for the beeps. (they will stop when it is ready to program.)

(make sure you set the timing as follows: Delta wind motors: 3-5 Deg. MAX Wye wind motors: 5-10 Deg. MAX )

this is the BASIC hook up instructions for the programming box.
please see the complete instructions I have posted here for you to use.

[runzwithsizorz]

Boy Carl, you're a real Johnnie on the spot! Can you tell me the size of the female connectors soldered on the motor side? Are they 6mm? Gosh, I hate that size, no one I know carries them.
Guess I could cut back the shrink and solder some 6.5mm, or 8mm, OR just some 10awg wire. trouble is that I have no shrink to re-seal it, what size should I buy? Also, my build nearly forces
me to extend the motor wires aprox. 3", would this be a problem? I'm really worried that this ESC doesn't have enough amps for this build, what say you? ----------
Titan40, 4092 Leo 2080kv, with the large jacket, 4 water inlets, 4s2p, or 5s2p, aprox. weight 12lbs+, have various props up to a 225 Panther.

[sampit]

Thanks Carl I was about to drop you a Pm
By chance you found my post,
I'm just out at the moment but will be home soon to give it a go
should the rx battery power the the rx or does this power from the Esc
The UBEC lights up but the rx light up but goes out
Not sure if it gets is power by the From the esc or the rx battery
not sure why it lights up then goes out

[sampit]

Thanks Carl the esc is now programed
But my light on my rx still goes off when I conect the rx battery the ubec stays on ok
I'm using a small 4s 20c 800 mah pack to power the ubec do yo think that is ok? The Ubec need a minimum 12v to 60v to power up so I
would think this be ok to use.
I thought when I pluged the lipos in it may power up the rx but nothing
Tried another rx just I case but the same thing happens it lights up but goes of straight away

[sampit]

Not sure what I did but Pluged it in again to try and all works fine .that was a bit strange why my rx light now stays on and the ruder servo is working.should be good to go.

[sampit]

It was because I didn't have my tx turned on.Doh
Timming I set to 9 degrees I'm running a 3740 1760kv outrunner on 6s to start with
I got a bit of motor stutter on the 8s 240A ESC set at 8 degrees do you think I'm going the right way or should I go down on degrees to stop stutter

[runzwithsizorz]

Just a thought Sampit, you may have to go through the binding procedures of your TX to get your RX to respond again.
EDIT; "It was because I didn't have my tx turned on.Doh"
LOL!!! and here I thought I was the only one to do something silly. At my age we call that a senior moment.

[sampit]

Good point! but I didn't need to re bind on this time
It was because I didn't have my tx turned on
working fine now.
LOL I thought I was going to fry it before I used it
Had a few sleepless. Nights thinking about UBECS but
All part of the fun
We're would we be without forums like this!
Keep up the good work
Thanks to all just need to know what I should do with the timming and I'm out for a run

[carlcisneros]

Sampit
start off with 4s then progress to 5s then finally 6s power.

start at 5 deg then work up from there.

run a minute then check temps, do this a few times then go to the next size UP battery.
same with the timing.
Take your time.

Runz, I use 8mm on anything from 6S on up. I use 5.5mm on 5S and lower power.

If you have a Harbor Freight tools in your area, go there and they have different size heat shrink available at the stores.
If not order the 5/8" from OSE.

[runzwithsizorz]

Thank you for the responds Carl. I am not sure I made clear what I'm about to do. I will have to cut away a good portion of the *ESC's * shrink to solder on new contacts. Once done
how can I re-seal that area to make it somewhat water proof? I suppose I could just dip the entire back half of the ESC in liquid electrical tape but that would just be really ugly.
I have shrink for bullets, where can I find shrink large enough for ESC's or my elogger?

[carlcisneros]

if it is the SAME esc as Sampit's leave the 3 wires where they are and add additional wire lengths needed to the existing wiring.
get the same size wire and go to a good fiching supply store and get some copper lure tie wire.
remove the existing bullets from the esc, strip the insulation required to MATCH the same exposed lengths on the
ESC wiring, TIGHTLY wrap the copper wire around both wire ends together, apply flux, solder the wires together
VERY WELL, and then clean the joint up with alcohol, then put a piece of heat shrink over eeach joint and you are done.

I have done this on occasion and works a charm.

and also, if you think about it, look at some of the other ESC's and motor wiring that come with various units
and look how long those suckers are. Folks use the supplied lengths and have no problems at all.

( I am sure someone will chime in on this one.) LOL

[runzwithsizorz]

Perhaps there were 2 different models of the FC 16s 200amp ESC's. Mine doesn't have any motor wires at all, the 6mm(?) female bullets are soldered directly onto the board.
Think what I'll do is make 3, 3" long 10awg wires with 5.5mm females on 1 side, and males on the other. Insert the 5.5's into the 6's on the board, and solder the heck out of them.
I only hope not to do any damage to the board, and the shrink doesn't turn all gnarly. Probably wait a spell to cool between each of the three joints.
So many times I have read on these forums, that the less wire/distance the better. Some have even shortened the alreadt short wires of their motors, oh well.

[sampit]

I got my 200Amp direct from Fliermodel thats why they might be different

[carlcisneros]

Runz;

you NEVER said the Bullets were soldered directly to the PC board.
you can do soldering of the bullets to bullets if you want to, not a problem.
MAKE SURE you're Iron is of sufficient wattage to do the job on each bullet
QUICKLY. Damage can be caused by Excessive heat transfered from the iron
to the board/components if the unit is of Insufficient wattage. If it were me I would replace
the 6mm bullets with 8mm ones and be done with it.

but that is just me.

Sampit, the originally 16S 200A esc's had wiring on the motor side, then they changed over to the bullets
on the board style.