Toysport Syncron Setup Help

[Camps23]

Hi all,
I bought my first RC boat earlier this year (syncron).
I got it used from a local who used to race it. It was in great condition with proboat 1800kv motor and 40amp esc.
I took motor and ESC out and sold them. I installed a TP 2180KV with a seaking 180 esc with extra cap bank. Prop is X442
I will be runnning this boat on 2 x 2s lipos. When I got it the white had faded abit and didnt have that new boat shine.
I stripped it down and repainted it gloss white with fightercat decals...there carbon fiber vinyls matched the carbon fiber windshield decal already on way to good!
After putting it all back together I have a few questions and was hoping everyone could give me there input on my setup.
First off this is embarrassing but Im not sure if it matters how the motor connects to the esc. My motor has red,yellow,green leads and the esc has red,blue,black leads. Which goes were ?
Second question is how will this run without turn fins or trim tabs ? Third is Im confused on the water cooling circuit. I have the intake on my rudder ran to the back of the boat where I have two pipes to press fit
the hose on..inlet/outlet I presume. Next do I go to motor cooling jacket and out to esc then back to outlet on back of boat ?
All help is really appreciated !!
Thanks in advance

[BHChieftain]

Hi,
On the motor-to-esc connections, they do not matter, but if you see that the motor is turning the wrong way, then just swap 2 of the wires and that will change the direction of the motor (you want the motor turning the prop counter clockwise if you are facing the rear of the boat).

You will definately need at least 1 turn fin. I use just 1 turn fin on the right hand side-- I can make high speed right hand turns, and left turn corrections, and low speed full left hand turns. Looks like your hull has a mount point for a second turn fin which should allow you to make fast left hand turns. I do NOT use trim tabs-- with the stock hardware my hull did not need them, plus fewer holes drilled in the transom. Only consider them if your boat is porposing up and down, and you are unable to correct that by adjusting COG and/or the strut (which is the right way to fix that problem anyway...).

The rudder cooling line should first feed the ESC, then feed the motor cooler, then out the hull. My boat does not have that blue thing attached to the driveline-- I'm not sure if that is an oiler, or for water cooling of the flex-- I just grease my flexshaft before every run myself...

Note, my water exit port is on the side of the boat, closer to the motor.

Chief

[Camps23]

What about the x442 prop ?

[BHChieftain]

I use the x442 prop and the x440. I actually like the x440 better. Runs cooler, less chine walking, and takes the corners better. My 6mm connectors were also getting too hot. So I only use the 442 prop when racing.

Also, twice I've had the x442 break my flexshaft (tore it out of the propshaft), and the shaft and prop were lost... Happened when the boat jumped out of the water and back in-- too much torque... So if you want to run that prop full time, you may want to upgrade to a 187 cable which is braised to the propshaft (randy at BBY racing can make one for you). If you remove the stock Teflon liner it will fit in the stock stuffing tube. Or find a detounged x442.

Chief

[Camps23]

Only thing I haven't installed is the receiver. Do I needs to store this in a ziplock bag or anything to help keep it dry ?
Thanks

[electric]

Only thing I haven't installed is the receiver. Do I needs to store this in a ziplock bag or anything to help keep it dry ?
Thanks

There are many ways to protect you receiver. The way I found that works best is to coat the receiver with some water proof material. You just pop it out of it's plastic shell and paint on some of that black rubber stuff you buy that can coat your tools. I will look around on the net to find it. Others use different products, but the main idea is to coat the board with something that repels water. Will save you lot's of trouble.

[electric]

Here is the stuff I am talking about. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...p?prod=hd-rdip