Just purchased a Leapard 3674 motor, are the stock connectors ok or have you been changing them to 5.5 connectors which look larger?
connector newbe question
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dont cut the wires, but i would heat up the connectors to remove them and replace them with 5.5. however im sure that on a 3674 the stock connectors would be fine, i just like consistancy throughout all my boats.see my fleet: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=294
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Thanks for the input guys, the connectors look good to me just slighly smaller then the 5.5's if that makes a difference in current flow? I don't know crap about the electrical end of this sport but I'm trying to learn.
I forgot to add I may need to extend the motor wires to reach my esc I under stand you should try to avoid this.Comment
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...I forgot to add I may need to extend the motor wires to reach my esc I under stand you should try to avoid this.
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Keep the ESC as close to the motor as possible. Long wires = more resistance (wasted as heat) and less current flow (Amps). Short wires = less heat loss & more amp flow. Resistance is the ENEMY.
I use a mini-torch to remove stock bullets. Heat em up & they fall into a cup of water. If stubborn, I clip on a tiny vice grip on the bottom and let the hot bullet drop on my soldering table - a piece of granite flooring tile.
As to bullet connectors, after several stock motor/ESC/LIPO connectors melted the silver solder at the ESC/LIPO connections, I've settled on 8mm ESC/LIPO bullets for all of my ESC/LIPO connections - all sizes of motors. Makes charging easy & no meltdowns so far.
For the (3) motor/ESC connectors, I use 8mm for 5692s, and 6mm for all of my smaller motors. Having an 8mm & 6mm standard makes wiring simpler and uniform between boats & motors.
The best 8mm bullet connectors I've seen can be bought at Hobby King. They have thicker bullets, and the longer connections have more surface area for a solid electrical contact. If you need good quality bullets fast, buy them here on OSE - best FE customer service anywhere.
Used to have problems with the silver solder flowing into the contact areas, so I built this simple jig below. Use the mini-torch and regular electrical solder to fill up the connector ends, and 60/40 silver solder on the wires. With the connector in the jig, heat the bullet solder & wire with the mini-torch until the wire can be folly pushed into the bullet. After it cools down, I clip off excess solder from the holes in the bullets & a flap wheel to smooth things up prior to adding the heat shrink. JIM
NOTE: It's just a piece of >1/2" thick aluminum plate with holes drilled the same size as the "connector" OD part of the bullet to hold them in place & eliminate excess solder flow.DSCN0952.jpgDSCN0951.jpgLast edited by JIM MARCUM; 05-27-2012, 03:46 PM.JIM MARCUM: NAMBA 777; EX? SoCal FE Racers Club; D-19; Official 2012 NAMBA FE Nationals Rescue Diver; Purple Heart Viet Nam Vet; Professional SCUBA/HOOKA Diver, KELCO, 1973-1978; BBA 1978, Magna Cum Laude; MBA 1980 w/honors; Retired DOD GS1102-12 Contract SpecialistComment
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