smoked my ul1 motor

[amp_up]

Hi I smoked my ul1 motor in my whip today The funny thing about it was it never really ran as well as my sons.
His whip with a ul1 motor runs a little cooler draws a little less amps and was faster then mine running the same m445.
He uses the ul1 esc and I used a turnigy 120 esc.I will assume maybe mine might have been weak from the start.If I want
to reduce the amp draw can it be done by reducing prop dia. rather then giving up alot of pitch like going from the M445 to
say a X640.

[MarkF]

Lower your timing. I run mine on 7 deg.

Mark

[BHChieftain]

My seaking (turnigy) esc lasted 4 runs before burning up the caps (opc tunnel, ul1, 4s1p, x442 ) I'm switching over to the aquacraft 60a esc... Other guys in my club run that combo without a problem.

Chief

[Fluid]

You can try an x642 prop, but the draw will be similar to an m445. While many get by with the UL-1 controller, you are likely pullilng over 80 amps and a 'better' ESC can help improve reliability. As Mark mentioned, timing could be a contributor to overheating; I run 10* without problems. Do what you can to reduce wire lengths, that helps increase ESC reliability.




.

[Brushless55]

I run the T-180 in my DF33 with 15* of timing and it runs great
sounds like you had a bugger motor from the start?
check all your connections on the motor and esc and make sure you have good solder joints

[siberianhusky]

Sounds like something was up from the start. I regularly put 110 amp spikes and averages of 75 amps through a UL-1 motor, I also use a UL-1 esc, it handles it absolutely no problems.
I have a pair of Proboat motors that don't seem to run quite the same, one is always a few degrees hotter.

[TheShaughnessy]

I've burnt up a couple UL1 motors on that prop. You might try back cutting it, unless you need the lift. You might also look into cooling. As the mags warm up you might be getting more rpm, but less torque. Since its the highest kv spec motor (or at least claims to be) you already have plenty of rpm so keeping it cooler should help with mag strength and the ability to turn the larger m445 prop.

I ran a ul1 with m445 combo through the winter, then went to race in early summer when temps where higher and said by bye to my motor.

I agree with the others on timing.

[amp_up]

Thanks for the input.I order a new motor here from Steve so I will try again.I will try adjusting the timing and try something smaller.
I think the esc should be OK as the motor actually stop as I was bringing in.The esc was not even warm and when i opened up the motor i see some of the windings are black.Here is the eagle tree log from my second run X642.jpg I didn't have it in when the motor went.
Heres a quick video runnning the x642 http://youtu.be/imWy8g7096E

[Brushless55]

I run the T-180 in my DF33 with 15* of timing and it runs great
sounds like you had a bugger motor from the start?
check all your connections on the motor and esc and make sure you have good solder joints

Did I say this hull is on the heavy side and I run a X445 with no issues at all
and a M445 would pull less amps than what I am

[longballlumber]

Did the insulation on the motor wires break down and short out?

Later,
Mike

[amp_up]

No they didn't from what i see if you look at the picture I attached you can see one of the windings opposite the motor
wires is a darker colour.I was using 5.5 mm castle bullet connectors on the motor.motor windings (Small).JPG

[Brushless55]

how are the mags in the rotor?
still strong?

[amp_up]

I would say they where.