Shaft tube sleeve question

[islandboy]

So I epoxied in a short section of 11/32" brass tube thru the hull of an 1/8th scale and have a 5/16" brass shaft tube that slips inside it and runs to the strut. I saw this setup somewhere and it made sense to me if you ever wanted to change a worn shaft tube without having to realign and epoxy it to the hull. My question is what's the best way of attaching the 5/16" tube to the 11/32" tube, so it won't leak, can't rotate but would be easy to take apart if I had to? I've thought about using epoxy, 5200 or just shrink tubing (the kind with the sealant) on the outside. Any suggestions?

[Gary Mullens]

some guys use locite.

[JimClark]

I have done similar setup and didn't use anything I only attached to the strut wasn't a leak issue. It was a smaller boat but shouldn't be an issue

[JIM MARCUM]

This is one case where Silicone sealant is OK to use on an FE boat. Put a small dab on the smaller tube when you insert it. DON'T get silicone on the inside of the hull! Epoxy & all other resins won't stick to where silicone has been used.

Another way is to put epoxy on the last 1/4" of each end of the stuffing tube. To take it apart later, just heat up the tube ends with a micro torch until the epoxy' toasts and it will come apart.

JIM

[islandboy]

Thanks for the good ideas. I was about to use epoxy tonight but decided against it. The two tubes fit together so tightly that I think the epoxy will be scraped off upon insertion. What would you guys think of using CA glue put on at both ends?

[JimClark]

you are worring about nothing

[longballlumber]

I would agree with Jim here... On my most recent build (Phil Thomas Stealth 30) glassed in a 9/32 brass tube and then used the standard 1/4 brass tube slipped thru for the entire stuffing tube. I didn't find a need to glue, silicone, or other to keep water out. Mine has always been dry as a bone.

Later,
Mike

[JIM MARCUM]

With Jim Clark too. Michael's method is EZ & works. If it leaks, try my harder way, or not. JIM

[islandboy]

you are worring about nothing

I'm sure you are right, but I run a boatbuilding company and sweat the small stuff on a daily basis. Lots of what ifs. This baby we built had 2600 hp in her and at 42,000 lbs did 60 mph!
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[properchopper]

Peter,

Although stuffing tubes rarely need replacing (especially if you lube the cable every time after running), you might try a simple solder spot-weld at the joint inside the hull and seal with silicone tubing like a similar way it's done to seal the flex/stuffing tube joint as in the bottom picture. If you need to replace the tube, re-heat the spot weld to separate joint.

Edit : If you use a stuffing tube support like in the picture, it'll hold the inner tube in place and eliminate the need to fasten it to the outer tube as well as allowing the inner tube to be moved fore-aft when adjusting the strut.

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The boat in the picture is amazingly beautifull & potently powered. Wow !! (reminds me of the Lobster boat I rode in when I summered in Booth Bay Harbor ME back in the 50's)

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[islandboy]

Peter,

you might try a simple solder spot-weld at the joint inside the hull and seal with silicone tubing

I like the spot solder suggestion, that should do the job. I can rotate the tube (a little) fairly easily so this will prevent that from happening. Thanks to all for your replys and ideas.

[JimClark]

There is also heat shrink Tube that has glue on the inside that would seal it and hold in place

Sent from my MB611 using Tapatalk 2

[JIM MARCUM]

Tony's method beats the hell out of mine. I need to remind myself: KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID. JIM