VHull needs a bigger BL motor any suggestions??

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • ice_spy
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2008
    • 122

    #16
    Thanks Fluid, the dog gap is about 1/2 the thickness of the cable. I'll increase it some more. A thrust bearing is one item i should have got a while ago, i will try to eliminate as much excess wire as i can. Ive played with trim angle a little trying to make it run dryer, by a degree or two and found its best atm on approx 1/2 - 1 degree positive trim as you say.

    Really apprecite you guys looking over my set up and giving me some needed advice. Before i place my order with OSE, for the motor and some bullets, thrust bearing, cable saver and larger props, is there anything else i may need?
    I will be looking forward to posting the results, thanks.

    Comment

    • ice_spy
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2008
      • 122

      #17
      Took a lot of lenght out of the batt leads and the ESC, then fitted 6mm plugs. Turned the batts sideways so the CG is more around 27% as advised. Thanks. Still have to order a thrust washer.
      2012-05-06192549.jpg

      I noticed the bottom of the hull is not flat ???????????? you can see the light through the steel ruler and bottom of the hull. It has a gradual concave then into a more sudden 'kick' at the transom.
      2012-05-06095056.jpg
      2012-05-06095018.jpg
      I believe this would be giving the hull a lot of negative trim, and thats why it seems to force the nose down running very wet.
      Should i be sanding this out of the hull?
      Last edited by ice_spy; 05-06-2012, 05:59 AM.

      Comment

      • ice_spy
        Senior Member
        • Nov 2008
        • 122

        #18
        Originally posted by Fluid
        Set the model on a flat surface and adjust the stinger to be one to two degrees up at the prop end. That will help to lift the bow and reduce amp draw....
        Fluid, could the above curve in the hull be adding a lot of amp draw from excess drag?
        Thinking of buying the Etti data logger so thati can take the guess work out of setting up my boats.

        Comment

        • martin
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Aug 2010
          • 2887

          #19
          That is called hook & will affect the performance of the boat, the hook holds the boat to the water & stops the front comming up as well & will run very wet. Thats the first thing i check & alter to get the bottom flat escpecialy around the last 1/4 - 1/3 of the hull, if a hulls got to much hook then i wont buy it.

          Comment

          • siberianhusky
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Dec 2009
            • 2187

            #20
            WOW that must have been moulded that way, I'd be surprised if it shrunk that much, unless it was pulled from the mould while it was still rubbery. But I don't think so because it has wooden rails.
            Doesn't the Seaducer or Rico 20 have an intentional hook in the hull? I seem to remember reading that on IW or RRR a while ago.
            I'd test the crap out of it then decide if it needs to be filled, that would be a pile of filler! I think it was an intentional design feature for better or worse. Who knows maybe it's a rocket at 75 + mph and solid as a rock! Strange things happen when boats approach the speed of insanity. (aka - the fun zone)
            If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

            Comment

            • ice_spy
              Senior Member
              • Nov 2008
              • 122

              #21
              I bought trim tabs with all my hardware for the boat, but never needed them. now i know why. Maybe i will keep the boat for choppy days as the hook should keep it in the water a bit better then. The design of the hull looks like its meant for choppy conditions. I would rather buy a known brand hull that performs out of the box.

              Comment

              Working...