Help Understanding brushless motor specs

[NHOFFROAD]

So I am a new guy to this whole brushless thing and need some help understanding some thing. I was going to order a new motor for my Apparition Cat that the motor burned up in today and I am curious as to what the 5.5D means in this motor (LPB3650-b/5.5D) I also see 2.5Y alot when looking at motors and have googled the heck out of it but found nothing.
I am just trying to replace the motor I burned up today with some thing that has a little more pep and can hit the 50-60 range. I am running 2 5000mah 3s 20c/ 40c burst lipos and a seaking 180amp esc.Think I may have burned up the esc too, I am not sure.All I know is when it did dies and I tried to hit the throttle again it decided to go backwards real slow.
I can run the gas ones all day but understanding the brushless is a little overwhelming.
T
Any help would be great.

[Make-a-Wake]

So you're running a single motor? If so I'd go for the Leopard 4074 in the 1450kv on 6s. Your ESC is plenty strong enough for it but you need 40c(not burst) 5000's...................or 35c minimum.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...o-4082&cat=148

[NHOFFROAD]

Thanks for the info, I was not sure about the batteries and ended up talking myself into them...........I do that alot, then I come here and post why my *!***!***!***!** is not working, then I go but the right stuff that is recommended by you guys.LOL I am now looking at the 40c 5000mah 4s lipo
Really tempted to run back to gas but I love a challenge and trying new things. Next electric boat is gonna be Creole Queen or some kind of paddle boat type boat.

[NHOFFROAD]

3Y...........2.5 Y......................5D......................4D? ?????What do these numbers mean?

[JonD]

3Y...........2.5 Y......................5D......................4D? ?????What do these numbers mean?

The Y and D refer to the winding configuration on the motor. Star (Y) or Delta (D) winding. Same thing as three phase AC motors. Google it and you will see the difference.

Apparantly they offer different torque/speed characteristics, so depending on application, one can often be preferable to the other. But I think you'll find that for any given kV that you are after, there won't be a lot of choice within a brand of motor.

As for the number prefix 3, 4, 5, sorry I'll have to defer to others with more experience. But if you are looking at a particular brand and kV of motor, I doubt there will be too many options in this regards as well.

If you're running an Apparition, I have to agree with Make-a-Wake and a Leopard 4074 around 1450kV would seem a good start if you are set on 6S. I think many would suggest 2200kV on 4S batteries, but if you are already set up for 6S then why not? This will give you lower current draw, less heat etc. (better reliability in theory), but a bit more battery weight (assuming the same mah capacity).

".......tempted to go back to gas" nuh.... big mistake! You are on the right track here - enjoy!

Now, a Leopard powered 4082 6S paddle boat would be quite something to behold!. Hey, what a about a twin motor set up -

Cheers,

Jon

[Fluid]

The numbers 2, 3, 4 etc are the number of turns on the motor stator. You really don't need to know this, the motor size, number of poles and Kv (rpm/volt) are more important. As for the Wye (Y) and Delta (D) winding configurations; while these do have different power characteristics, the most important part is the timing advance they require. A D wind runs 0-4* advance, the Y from 5-15*.

I too recommend The Leopard 4074/1400 motor. Just keep the prop small or you'll burn up the ESC or motor, or overheat the cells; start with an m445 and work up to an m645. I ran 89 mph with this hull using a Castle 1515/1Y on 6S, but that was a SAW-only setup pulling 200-220 amps. 60 mpg should be a snap.




.

[NHOFFROAD]

Thanks guys, you were all alot of help. Your right Fluid, I did not really need to know this but I am one of those people who has to try and understand everything before venturing out on some thing I do not understand at all. Was much easier to put gas in it and go but I do like a challenge and new things.
And Jon, I like your idea of the paddle boat with the leopard in it. Wouldnt that be cool to have a saw paddle boat.
Thanks guys, just ordered the new motor from OSE and a new 200amp esc. Going to up grade the battieries now to some 40c and see what happens from there.

[JIM MARCUM]

Jay, you ran an 89MPH 6S Apparition at the SAW. You must have ran in the Q class, correct? JIM

[Brushless55]

Timing

The numbers 2, 3, 4 etc are the number of turns on the motor stator. You really don't need to know this, the motor size, number of poles and Kv (rpm/volt) are more important. As for the Wye (Y) and Delta (D) winding configurations; while these do have different power characteristics, the most important part is the timing advance they require. A D wind runs 0-4* advance, the Y from 5-15*.

I too recommend The Leopard 4074/1400 motor. Just keep the prop small or you'll burn up the ESC or motor, or overheat the cells; start with an m445 and work up to an m645. I ran 89 mph with this hull using a Castle 1515/1Y on 6S, but that was a SAW-only setup pulling 200-220 amps. 60 mpg should be a snap.

.

Hey Jay, I have a TP 4082 6D (2180kv)
your saying to run low timing, what happens to a D wind if we ran higher timing on them..
wasted amps? and excess heat?
thanks!

[NHOFFROAD]

So I got my new motor and esc and put them in. Ended up getting a Leopard 4074 and a swordfish 200amp esc. I also put a new prop on it( can't remember what it is) and added a water pick up so my esc has it's own cooling and the motor has it own cooling.
I did shoot some video that kinda sucks unless you watch in full screen, I was too far away but I just wanted to thank every one for there help. I did run it for about 6 minutes straight and ran it straight out. I checked my esc temp and was 91 degrees and motor was 98. I still have to put the right prop on it and get the strut set but I am a very happy camper.
This video was my first attempt putting it in the water.
About a minute and a half

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4NpW7mizC4&feature=youtube_gdata

[Make-a-Wake]

Looks great!!! Good job...............I'd like to know the prop when you find out.

[Brushless55]

The numbers 2, 3, 4 etc are the number of turns on the motor stator. You really don't need to know this, the motor size, number of poles and Kv (rpm/volt) are more important. As for the Wye (Y) and Delta (D) winding configurations; while these do have different power characteristics, the most important part is the timing advance they require. A D wind runs 0-4* advance, the Y from 5-15*.

.

can anyone tell me the power difference between the Y and D windings using similar kvs?
thanks!

[m4a1usr]

I guess most of this additional info was unnecessary so I will get rid of it.

John

[Brushless55]

Thank you for the info John...
now that I'm totally confused...
if the Y and D winds had the same KV is there a better choice over the other?
thanks

[m4a1usr]

Thank you for the info John...
now that I'm totally confused...
if the Y and D winds had the same KV is there a better choice over the other?
thanks

I should have posted a better answer than what I had before. If assumming you have 2 motors (both from the same manufacturer), one a wye, one a delta, and they have almost identical Kv, same Internal Resistance (IR) and same Idle Current (Io) then it would not matter which one you would choose since the math would say both have equal torque.

However you are going to find that since both motors would have different windings number and that effects the Kv. But lets say just for giggles you have a choice of 2 motors that are very similar, say a Neu 1515/2.5D/1650kv motor and a Neu 1515/1.5Y/1500kv motor. Both could be run using the same power. So in such an instance what you would want to look at is which one had a lower Io (idle current). That number would be used to determine efficiency. So the lower idle current in the 1.5Y would be the better choice since its losses are lower than the 2.5D motor.

The problem is we really dont have enough information to determine how accurate those values are indeed factual data from the various manufacturers. You could do those measurements yourself. And it doesnt take a bunch of expensive devices either. Joerg had post on RRR some time back describing how to easily calculate the unknowns to determine these things.

John