AquaCraft UL-1 ESC vs Sworfish 120A ESC

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  • Bullwink
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 244

    #1

    AquaCraft UL-1 ESC vs Sworfish 120A ESC

    I was wondering folks thoughts on which of these two ESCs perform better with the UL-1 motor? This woud be in the usual P-Ltd class boats like P-LTD Mono and P-Ltd Hydro & Sport Hydro? In comparing the two, the obvious big difference is the AquaCraft is 60 Amp and the Sowrd is 120 Amp. Plus the Sword is programmable. The AquaCraft is $85 and the Sword is $70. I use both and do not see any difference. It would seem the Sword is a much better buy. I'm just asking......
  • LarrysDrifter
    Big Booty Daddy
    • May 2010
    • 3278

    #2
    Do any of those classes require the spec esc? If so, you need to use the AQ. Both speedos run the motor the same. You wont see a difference in power or speed. The AQ is advertised as water proof and can only be run on 4s voltage, no more, no less. The SF is, I think 2-6s, and prob has a higher burst. It isnt waterproof snd from my experience, not water resistant either.

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    • lenny
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2010
      • 4293

      #3
      And more to grow with to,
      Or the seaking 120a.
      Just do not get the swordfish wet, It does not take it to well.
      ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

      My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

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      • Bullwink
        Senior Member
        • Oct 2011
        • 244

        #4
        Larry, NAMBA does not require a spec ESC. Yeah, I try to waterproof the Sword with Plastic Dip/Liquid Electrical Tape.

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        • sailr
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Nov 2007
          • 6927

          #5
          Go with the Swordfish. I've had great luck with them on the UL-1 motor, running in spec classes.
          Mini Cat Racing USA
          www.minicatracingusa.com

          Comment

          • Serpents811
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2011
            • 381

            #6
            I got to say the swordfish esc are very fragile as far as get wet goes , you spit on it and is junk

            Comment

            • longballlumber
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Apr 2007
              • 3132

              #7
              My experience with the Swordfish hasn't been great, but it is limited too. I have only run one a few times in my P-Limited Sport Hydro in racing conditions. I am not a “basher”

              #1 the throttle response isn't very smooth. I have noticed a delay with transmitter stick input and the input translating into the boat. Especially when you’re going full bore and you let off; there is a LONG delay in how the controller cuts power to the motor… This isn’t something that I like for racing. For bashing it could be tolerated.

              #2 I would agree with the statement that they are sensitive to water. It only takes very small amount of water to cause the controller issues…

              If you prop your boat correctly with the UL-1 motor the Aquacraft controllers are VERY reliable. I have only blown up one. It was near 3 years old and I believe the motor went bad taking the controller with it. Again, I am a racer, not a basher so I do set my boats up for performance!

              Later,
              Mike

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              • lenny
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2010
                • 4293

                #8
                Yes, My 120a swordfish took a dunk and does not tone through the motor any more,
                Also has a big delay in the throttle now, But it setup in my Rio ep on 3s and still good for a lot of fun.
                ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

                My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

                Comment

                • amp_up
                  Junior Member
                  • Mar 2012
                  • 8

                  #9
                  I have had good luck using the turnigy 120 and Seaking 120.One was in my boat when the water line came off the motor and filled up the inside before it stopped running
                  brought the boat in drained the water out blow the esc out sat in the sun and ran it the same day also my other one in my mono I decided to run two 4s packs in 2p
                  instead of 2 2s packs and in my sometimers moment hooked it up in series the esc wouldn't arm but did get hot until I released I hooked it up 8s but still both worked great all summer.I know it really doesn't answer the question but it is what i have experienced with the 2 i have.

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