flex cables and shaft 3/16

[madmorgan]

hi guys who here assembles their own3/16 cables and shafts? how is it done is it welded together then ground/ sanded back round ? i noticed you can buy assembled but there are no 3/16 to 316 shafts avail.

[Snowride]

This will help. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/info.php

[madmorgan]

i dont see where that helped at all if your refering to how to make them i have read through it a few times before but to take the same diameter flex cable and attach it to the same diameter shaft cmon now ! only way i can think is its either a the flex is ground down some to fit into the say .150 shaft or its welded the ground back to 3/16 someone has to know

[bruiser77]

They sell all the parts you would need here on ose under running hardware. And if you did a search you would find that under the tips section, there is a post called flex crucible that would show you what you need to know,C'mon now! bruiser

[longballlumber]

Almost all of the preassembled 3/16 flex cables with a 3/16 stub shaft are brazed using a high silver content brazing compound. I personally wouldn’t trust a 3/16 cable and stub with Loctite retaining compound, but that’s just me. However, people have had success in lower power scenarios.

This is one area where I prefer to buy an assembled shaft from a well know manufacturer. I suggest Hughey brand cables. $25 bucks is a cheap price to pay knowing that I won’t be losing a $40-50 prop…

Later,
Mike

[BHChieftain]

I know Randy at BBY racing can braze the cable to the shaft if you send him the parts. He build a nice flexdrive for me once.
Chief

[martin]

I make all of my flexes & wire drives, If its a .187"(3/16")flex & 3/16" stub as been said you must braze. Not sure how others do theirs but on the flex i unravel the outer layer of wire to the depth the hole is drilled in the stub & cut this off off the flex so just the core of the flex goes down into the hole.when the stub is pushed onto the flex it butts up against the outer layer of flex. Then its brazed so theirs brazing down inside the hole as well as brazed at the stub/flex area. You must be carefull with temps when close to flex/stub area so as not to get the flex to hot in that area. Then a simple clean up of the brazed joint to leave 3/16" diameter. Martin.

[madmorgan]

well i hate to say it but i have lost 2 props and shaft from "manufacturers assemblies" and 1 from someone on one of these forums that over charged me for a assembly that was bullett proof i use silver not loctite havent lost any of mine that i have done yet knock on wood . thanx martin thats what i thought would probably have to be done for a more secure way . cheers

[Alexgar]

ive had better luck with hughey cables than the octura one and i like that the drive dog is pinned in place rather than a set screw and haveyet to break one, it building one i use a small torch with stabrite and grind the outer most coil of the cable off ive lost one(.125x1/8) but i usaully overpower my setups

[Jeff Wohlt]

If you are using a 3/16 stub and 3/16 cable then Martin is correct. Must cut off out winds and then put them in the 150 hole of the stub and then braze them....which is the hardest part. I sell them and still they are no fun to build. They also need to be very aligned while brazing...tough too.