How to stop capillary action on stuffing tube?? Water in Hull

[Drax21]

I have both a pursuit and a cyberstorm, both get the problem when the water comes up the stuffing tube and builds up in the Hull. I have thought of an autobailer but this only works when the boat is moving. Please let me know how to stop this from happening or give me a better way to get rid of the water that enters the Hull.
Thanks

[jb1234]

I'm running .150 flex with teflon. I use a peice of heat shrink at the front of the stuffing tube to seal it up. Don't use the heat shrink with the white stuff in it. It works good to seal wire connection but it won't work on the stuffing tube. I use the cheaper heat shrink without the sealer. It works great. It will also keep the grease out of the inside of the hull. I've been using this on my latest build for a while and it always comes back dry.

[Turbo Dan-O]

"capillary action".... "autobailer".... This newbie is still learning!

[rabosi]

I used a a round faucet washer (.125" I.D. I think) as described in the link below. Also a very small bead of silicone sealant where the strut meets the hull. Also used the silicone tube idea on the stuffing tube end inside. Not a drop inside. This is on an OSE Pursuit btw.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-drive-sistems

[Drax21]

I used a a round faucet washer (.125" I.D. I think) as described in the link below. Also a very small bead of silicone sealant where the strut meets the hull. Also used the silicone tube idea on the stuffing tube end inside. Not a drop inside. This is on an OSE Pursuit btw.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-drive-sistems

I will try to get a hold of 1 of those facet washers, I definitely think the strut meeting the hull area is the problem zone so I have put silicone around that. Just found a piece of silicone tubing for the inside. Bath test time when its dry.... Thanks for all your help

[steveo]

the heat shrink trick very well as stated in another post

[siberianhusky]

I had that problem with a stinger, used a belt sander and put a bit of a taper on the bottom so the face of the stinger at the bottom no longer drags in the water flow.
If this is where the problems is happening it means you have a drag point there, the water leaving the boat should not be able to hit the front of the stinger enough to force water up there. Two reason to fix it up, less drag and no water in the boat.
I'm positive this is the cause of a lot of peoples problem, that boat now runs dry with nothing but grease in the brass stuffing tube, so seals or gaskets added, just cleaned up the water flow. Could also be happening at the drive dog depending on what kind of setup you have in the stinger.
There must be some water pressure present to force the water past the grease AND the wind in the flex cable, which "screws" everything out of the stuffing tube. Think about how fast the water is going the other direction, it should just slide past everything without making a 180* turn to go up the stuffing tube.

[Drax21]

I had that problem with a stinger, used a belt sander and put a bit of a taper on the bottom so the face of the stinger at the bottom no longer drags in the water flow.
If this is where the problems is happening it means you have a drag point there, the water leaving the boat should not be able to hit the front of the stinger enough to force water up there. Two reason to fix it up, less drag and no water in the boat.
I'm positive this is the cause of a lot of peoples problem, that boat now runs dry with nothing but grease in the brass stuffing tube, so seals or gaskets added, just cleaned up the water flow. Could also be happening at the drive dog depending on what kind of setup you have in the stinger.
There must be some water pressure present to force the water past the grease AND the wind in the flex cable, which "screws" everything out of the stuffing tube. Think about how fast the water is going the other direction, it should just slide past everything without making a 180* turn to go up the stuffing tube.

I don't have a problem when the boats are moving only when it stops. This could be because of too many amps, loose wires etc etc. I have ran my pursuit in the water for a minute brought it back and it was dry. I have had the parallel dodgy connectors melt and the boat has stopped dead in the middle of the lake. By the time it got to the other side, the hull was 1/4 filled with water. That's why autobailers are useless to me. I do like the idea of getting rid of the drag though.

[BHChieftain]

You might want to check out the seal where the stuffing tube enters the boat vs trying to get a better seal at the prop end or coupler end.

All of my water intrusion issues have been due to this and when that seal is good I do not need anything else to keep the boat dry.

Chief

[steveo]

and if you still end up with some water in the hull cut up a sponge to fit around the transom and stuffing tube to keep water from sloshing around that may damage a receiver or esc

[Drax21]

Thanks everyone, I have heat shrinked the ends of the stuffing tube and put silicone around where the stuffing tube enters the boat. I am gonna test it out shortly. Will let you know how it works out.

[Drax21]

The heat shrink works great and no water entered the hull while boat was flat. I did notice that when I turned the boat nose downwards water was still in the shaft but a minimal amount. Thanks

[detox]

I would use large silicone fuel tubing in place of the heat shrink tubing, but whatever works for you.

[Drax21]

I have tried both the silicone tubing and the heat shrink and I am seeing better results with the heat shrink at the moment but it probably depends on t
he stuff you use. So with this gap between the Hull and the strut, can I just fill it over?, I believe the gap is for adjusting the angle.DSC_1287.jpg

[rabosi]

Is it normal for a stinger to have that big of a gap? I have a regular strut on mine so it's flush against the transom. I would think that you should be able to adjust it instead of filling. I would wait till someone with more experience chimes in.