Peltier Thermocouplers for cooling?

[Eyekandyboats]

i am going to buy a couple of those to make a lipo warmer box for winter running
OMG. best idea. use them for cold water to heat your lipos. .... to get to the perfect temp for LOW reistance

[SJFE]

make sure that the entire surface of the thermocouple be covered with the load

So Doug whay you are saying here is the heat must be transfered across the entire colling surface evenly correct? If so I believe the thermal epoxy I have is the ticket. When it's spread evenly across the fets and you press some thicker copper plate into it upon curing it bonds great. I paid HELL removing the plate from the esc I smoked 2 or 3 weeks ago.

I am thinking MHZ cooling blocks , again epoxied to a plate in the units hot side. As to powering it what about a small aircraft 3s pack? A 10c pack would be light, cheap & small. I'll order one @ the end of next week and play around. I better order a couple more of those HM200amp esc incase of tragidy again..lol

[SJFE]

Ok som my interest is really peaked now. I did some digging and found a guy selling fully potted 100w units on ebay @ a great price. What makes it even better is he is 50 miles away from me and carries many diffrent sizes. I emailed him asking if he has a storefront, if so when can I come up , gave hime a brief description of what we are looking into & left him my cell number. I will keep you guys posted. Oh yeah...they where 10 bucks shipped . If it works out I'll go have a look and pick up a bunch.
Tom

[ReddyWatts]

These things might be great in SAW setups. Hook them up at max voltage/wattage and cooling for the two passes?

The technology has been around for a long time, just never heard of it. They are used with a temperature controller in computers, since the CPU is temperature sensitive and on for extended periods of time. Maybe SJFE can figure out how to use them on boat controllers at a set voltage, since our run times are relatively short and the controller is not as temp sensitive?
The beer cooler was using it at 9.6 volts.

Just thinking out loud.

[SJFE]

I used to run water cooling in all the gaming desktops I built. Some of this hardware and be crossed over but much is to heavy. I will have to dig into my old files for vendors but I believe the better HW was thermaltake & coolance had the best coolants. A single cpu or vga block can replace a set of mhz blocks (on the back of the exchanger) but the PC HW uses 6 to 8mm tubing. I have some money comming in this week, which will allow me to pick up some things. Of course I went through ALL my old PC totes outside and tossed 90% of my stuff...Always the way.

[FE Wannabe]

How about using Heat pipes?

This may be too elaborate, but......
I was thinking of how PC manufacturers cool CPUs and I remember that they sometimes use heat pipes to direct heat away from the CPU to a remote location where it can be cooled more efficiently. What if you connected copper or aluminum heat pipes to a copper plate on the back of the Peltier device and then connect the heat pipes to the trim plates at the back of the boat. I wonder if that would dissapate enough heat? As long as the pipes are insulated from their surroundings I don't think they would cause too many heat related issues inside the hull. This would work better for boats where the ESC is mounted near the transom of the boat. The one advantage I see is that you are removing the heat from the interior of the hull to the exterior. One disadvantage might be that unless you have flexible heat pipes this cooling system might be too rigid and not as easy to work around.

Hey, it's just a thought.
Brad

[Rex R]

been awhile since I read up on them...but seem to recall that a good number of heatpipes have to have a specific orientation(up/down).

[FE Wannabe]

Heat Pipes

Rex,
From what I have read about on the Internet as of late about heat pipes, they are now making them in various shapes and sizes, some are even flexible now.
They can work in a vertical or horizontal orientation.
They can transfer 60 times the heat that a piece of solid metal can, with no moving parts and no electricity required! The heat still needs to be removed from the heat pipe at the opposite end, but if that can be done outside the hull relatively easily, it might be worth looking into.

I am no expert on this by any means, but it looks like it could be promising.

I have not found any where to get my hands on any flexible heat pipes yet, but I haven't been looking that long yet, either.