Silver solder or 40/60 tin lead based

[jj2003]

This turned out to be a greatly informative and helpful thread fellas! Thanks for all the input! I'll be visiting a local electrical supply warehouse to pick up some quality solder. I've been using Oatey 60/40 rosin core, Top Line 60/40 rosin core and Bernzomatic silver bearing rosin core, but I'll be switching to a better manufacturer. Not that my solder joints have been bad quality but for the cost of electronics in our boats, I can only see using something that will last for some time to prevent premature failure. Thanks again for everyone's input and experience. All priceless! JJ.

[Varmint]

Make sure you invest in a good soldering station that is ESDS(Electro Static Discharge Safe) also. I have a couple of Weller WES51D soldering stations that I use and they will install a 5.5 or an 8mm with no problem. The digital is nice as I can see when the iron is cooling down too much and I need to jack up the temp a little. They go for around $120 or so and you can get the standard one without the "D" for less. They are both temp stabilized so as to maintain the temperature. There is a probe in the hand unit that feeds back to the controller. I used those to build all the boards for my audio amps. very nice soldering stations.

[jj2003]

Make sure you invest in a good soldering station that is ESDS(Electro Static Discharge Safe) also. I have a couple of Weller WES51D soldering stations that I use and they will install a 5.5 or an 8mm with no problem. The digital is nice as I can see when the iron is cooling down too much and I need to jack up the temp a little. They go for around $120 or so and you can get the standard one without the "D" for less. They are both temp stabilized so as to maintain the temperature. There is a probe in the hand unit that feeds back to the controller. I used those to build all the boards for my audio amps. very nice soldering stations.

I currently have a Hako 888 ESD safe but I have been looking at one available on the OSE website as well as Kintek racing's site. A TrakPower TK-950. I dont know if either of these is good quality but they are both affordable at the moment :)

[Varmint]

Hako is a great company, TrakPower I am not familiar with. Ungar also makes a lot of stations for production which is what we use at work for production stuff. I actually like the Weller better than the Ungar stuff but they work very well also. I almost bought a Hako but I could not pass up the price on the 2nd and 3rd WES51D units. I just forgot about Hako when I posted earlier.

[jkr]

I use a steinel butane soldering iron.
I never had any problems with it and it is a strong-cordless-torch-afortable tool.
I also have a six watt batery solder (weller) for those tiny things.

[kevinpratt823]

Any more feedback? Perhaps even a link to some good solder that won't melt in 200+amp setups from the solder gurus?

I have been using a 60/40 from a brand called Miniatronics and also the Bernzomatic stuff for electronics from Home Depot, I'm sure I could be using better.........

The 60/40 Miniatronics stuff is easy to work with, but I have melted connections with high amperage setups, the Bernzomatic just doesn't seem to flow up the wire and I'm not sure I trust the connections electrically, I haven't used it much so I don't know how it will hold up........

[madmikepags]

radio shack 60/40 is fine, been using it for RC stuff for 25+ years. I have plenty of setups over 200 amps and have never had a problem with it, I have literlly soldered thousands of connectors and built thousands of NiCd and NiMh packs over the years and have never had a problem. The key is not the solder the key is to keep the motor and battery wires as short as possible, the longer the wires the more resistance the more heat!!!

[madmikepags]

I've never had Radio shack solder corode the tip of my irons, and I usually get 2 years+ of soldering from a tip and thats hundreds and hundreds of connectors.

[kevinpratt823]

I do shorten wires as much as I am willing to, but I don't want to shorten them to the point that I can't use the equipment in another application. I think part of the problem with joints I have had melt may be from re-using bullets that have been previously soldered and still hold used solder........

[madmikepags]

yes definitely, I reuse only from boat to car or plane applications, much much lower amp draw.

[Cooper]

I only use silver solder on bullet connectors and whenever I can. I've don't use a torch, just a soldering gun 230/150 watt. I'm not anywhere near a professional but I think my joints look ok. And never had issues of overheating, if you are melting solder at other end of wire you are doing something wrong. About three seconds to heat bullets, melt some solder, have motor wire pre tinned, stick wire in bullet heat up again, add solder till it wicks into wire (from heating the bullet) remove heat let cool, wipe off the grime.

[kevinpratt823]

I am actually pretty good with soldering, and have been doing it a lot for quite some time. It's safe to say(for myself) that it isn't lack of technique or understanding in my case. I have never had any problems with new bullets........

[properchopper]

FWIW I've been using 62/36/2 for years with good results. My thinking (I'm willing to be schooled on this) is that the 2% silver content adds strength. I get it at the local electronics store; IIRC $ 3.49 .

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The biggest boost to my soldering jobs came when I got this Haiko knockoff at HK for http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arch=soldering

FIFTEEN Dollars and Thirty Four cents

(thanks to Jason Sim's recommendation)

It only comes with a needle tip but I got a pack of tips (including some handy chisel tips) on E-Bay for $9.95 It works GREAT and the price can't be beat.

Also, as long as we're on the topic here's something that I've been doing to keep heat from transferring up the wires while de-soldering the 4mm connectors on spec motors in preparation to add 5.5's : Reason : the AQ2030 is the go-to spec motor which we race frequently. They suffer a high casualty rate from over-ambitious props and burn the stator wires a bit too much. Keeping torch heat from climbing up the motor wires and away from the stator windings while de-soldering, at least I think, can reduce this probability (I'm hoping). I wrap the motor wire in cold water-soaked cloth and hold in vice. Clamp the 4mm in vice grips and hit with torch. Solder melts and 4mm falls off aided by the weight of the vicegrips.

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[Cooper]

Tony, that almost exactly what I do when removing bullets. I do heat them up with a small pocket torch, only for removal. Just like you said before any heat reaches other end of wire you are already done. I would almost be positive on a three inch piece of wire you could hold it by the end and by the time you feel heat the bullet will be long gone.
I think a lot of people that are having a hard time with soldering don't realize how important it is to have a clean tinned tip. I've seen people have a hard time with small bullets and a large solder gun, just wasn't getting the heat because the tip was layered with crap.
And the silver definitely adds strength, whatever way to look at it, from higher melting point or from the silver properties

[jkr]

Recently i bought solder (brand STANNOL) Sn96.5-Ag3-Cu0.5% and it is green(lead free).
One of the best solder i ever had but pricy (50$ 250g)