Drying out my 2028.................???

[Make-a-Wake]

Anyone have any input on my motor that was under water for a week? It was in my sunken 51" Mono wreck. Got it back, drained any water that had gotten in it and then added a generous amount of DW40 thru the front plate screw holes. I let it sit for a day, then turned it over and drained whatever would come out for a couple days. Is there any harmful "residue" in there? Does any ingredient in WD40 have a negative effect on the inside of the motor??? I'm thinking it wont but i could very well be wrong............do the windings need to be completely free of any foriegn substance.................does the WD40 just dry up???

Thanks, i'm getting close to my maiden with my new 47" and just want to make sure.

[1truckerdan]

I have used "corosion X" to clean up a both of my bl motors in my crawler after i run thru water and get Everything completely soaked ....motors are still running strong.
Here is their site..http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html
Daniel

[dasboata]

WD 40 will not hurt the motor I would take it apart and put it in a warm spot for a day or 2 but for best results it should come apart

[carlcisneros]

CHECK THOSE BEARINGS!!!!!!!!!
even shielded bearings can get moisture in them.

[siberianhusky]

Keep a close eye on the bearings, doesn't take much to start having them eat themselves.
I'd pull it apart and probably give it a good wash with water then WD or CRC it and replace the bearings, cheap insurance.
Used to use that maintenance for my buggy motors. Brushes and bearings all the time in those days.
The dash of your car is a great place to dry stuff out during the summer.

[1truckerdan]

I would take it all apart and inspect every part and surface inside....
Daniel

[m4a1usr]

I can tell you how we do it at work. We get lots of stuff thats been salted off the "bottom". The motor needs to be disassembled. Rinsed with deionized water. Then placed in an ultra sonic cleaner for several hours. Then blown out with nitrogen and put into an oven for 24 hrs to dry out. Next step would to have the windings meggered. If it passes then the bearings get changed out and then back together. Thats the procedure for our IMA. If you havent sprayed it with WD or Corrosion X yet I would do your best to rinse the inside with good clean water before taking another step. Organic contaminants from the bottom silt/ mud are not good for the innards. With heat and time they react with the other materials as they decompose.

John

[magnum500sw]

any hull damage ? or was it flipped over ?

[LarrysDrifter]

I'd send it to John to take work with him.

[Boaterguy]

any hull damage ? or was it flipped over ?

The bottom and transom ripped off and the whole thing got wrecked

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1469074

Edit: make a wake; is it too soon?

[sanyijr]

hey Make-a-Wake,

A day or a week is not much difference. Corrosion happen fastest once out of water (unless salty). I would think treating it like a wet cell phone would be ideal. Get the water out ASAP. Spin it, shake it, blast it with dust-off, etc. Then, heat gently like on stereo reciever or something that emits slow gentle heat for a half a day or so, then lube bearings. And as i finish this, I see John has aswered similarly.... Should be fine. Good luck dude.

Sean

[magnum500sw]

Wow. That's insane. Put that one up on the wall

[Make-a-Wake]

Thanks Guys for all the replies...............i'm really hesitant about taking off the rear endbell cuz i'm not sure if it houses the bearing and then the rotor may "flop/tilt" inside and bugger it up. Anyone know if the plastic cap just covers the end and the bearing is set in someway and can be gotten to and oiled?

Its GOT to be dry by now.......three weeks later and been sitting indoors with the shaft pointing down.

Yea, the vid is sure crazy the way it tilted in a millisecond.

[siberianhusky]

Water itself won't cause any problem with it running, they'll run fine under water, it's the possible crap in there that could cause the damage or moisture trapped in the bearing rusting. They don't dry out, you should see what comes out of dirt bike bearings, especially if you're riding through deep water and mud. They don't last too long.

[m4a1usr]

Thanks Guys for all the replies...............i'm really hesitant about taking off the rear endbell cuz i'm not sure if it houses the bearing and then the rotor may "flop/tilt" inside and bugger it up. Anyone know if the plastic cap just covers the end and the bearing is set in someway and can be gotten to and oiled?

Both end caps are made out of Aluminum. The rear one supports the bearing just like the front. To oil it its going to need to be pulled. Now if all your planning on doing is oiling them there is no reason you cant pull the rear one off. It will still be supported by the front one. And the rotor will not move to scrape against the windings. It will lay up against the armature steel plates towards the rear. But it will never see the copper windings if thats what your worried about. If it bugs you that much I can send you a piece of thin mylar. Its what I use to pull out rotors from motors. You just wrap it around the rotor air gap and carefully remove it as that allows you to pull it out even though its being forced against the steel laminations. But I dont know if I would "free hand" remove a 2028 rotor. Its huge and while in close approximation to the steel the rotor magnets have mucho force. Were it mine, I would use a vise to clamp the longer drive side of the rotor shaft. Then pull on the motor shell to get it off. Unfortunately putting them back together would require a strategy so as they not suddenly want to move instantaneously. That can cause something unforseen or unplanned to happen. Having access to a lathe where you could chuck things well and let things move in a controlled fashion would be about the only answer. At least to be safe.

John