McMaster-Carr lists some high temp solder. Does anyone know what is the highest temp solder a 80 watt iron will melt?
Solder temps & ?
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Depends on what tip you have on it. The heating element itself will get over 700 F no problem unless your iron is a work station with a potentiameter/ temp controller on it. Then its variable. Using an 1/8" pointed tip on a 80 watt iron you will have no problem using the tin/lead/silver solder. I dont see any reason to use that stuff though. The 60/40 stuff will suffice for what we do. If your using the big 3/16" chisel tip then getting above 600 F may become an issue.
JohnChange is the one Constant -
Very good discussion topic… I have some theoretical questions.
It’s a known fact that most racers are removing the 3mm-4mm motor connectors on the Spec stuff because of solder melting at the connector. What if we were to use a solder with a higher melting point rather than changing connectors?
We use a solder with higher silver content when we need strength we don't really need strength at the connectors… Does using a different Tin/Lead combo to promote higher melting point make sense do to the current we are trying to run thru these joints…
This is the stuff I like... We all can stand to learn something out of this thread…
Later,
MikeComment
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Depends on what tip you have on it. The heating element itself will get over 700 F no problem unless your iron is a work station with a potentiameter/ temp controller on it. Then its variable. Using an 1/8" pointed tip on a 80 watt iron you will have no problem using the tin/lead/silver solder. I dont see any reason to use that stuff though. The 60/40 stuff will suffice for what we do. If your using the big 3/16" chisel tip then getting above 600 F may become an issue.
John
Right now I'm using the radio shack stuff.
I'm thinking of trying this stuff.
40 60 __ 0.062" 460° F Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Can one of you smart guys tell me if this chart is accurate?
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Another question I have is "How" the wire should be inside the connector.
Right now if I have a 14g wire inside a 4mm connector there is a bunch of extra space inside the bullet hole, normally thats filed with lead.
I'm wondering if it would be better to remove more of the wire insulation and "bunch" up the wire and jam it inside the hole so there isnt so much extra space.Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Another question I have is "How" the wire should be inside the connector.
Right now if I have a 14g wire inside a 4mm connector there is a bunch of extra space inside the bullet hole, normally thats filed with lead.
I'm wondering if it would be better to remove more of the wire insulation and "bunch" up the wire and jam it inside the whole so there isnt so much extra space.Comment
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Can one of you smart guys tell me if this chart is accurate?
http://www.eddy-current.com/condres.htm
Keep in mind I'm not one of the smart guys that's why I hang on to old text and reference books from college days!Comment
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Smart enough in my book, thanks!!
One of my favorite sites is
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
The descriptions of their items is unmatched.
I'm going to try some of my next high current parallel connectors with this copper rod.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Actually that makes alot of sense. Current would have to flow through the solder to the conector back through the solder to the other wire....might be alot of resistance through the solder itself. Pretty neat subject.
JimmyCome to the FASST sideComment
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Interesting subject, going off topic a little I have ask the question myself a few times and I believe that the "space" inside a connector that is packed full of solder is where most of the heat is produced from a connector more then the contact itself (assuming decent contact) One of the "techs" I used to work with asked why I dont place the stripped cable into a brass sleeve before inserting it into the connector to take up the space. I'm interested in hearing what others have to say on the topicJimmySteven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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My background is electrical and power electric engineering so I'll give the simple answer ( cause at my age I can rarely give the complex one anymore!), the
connectors and that's any connection including the soldered joint is were the most heat will be generated along the path of electron flow to the motor as these areas
have the highest resistance. It wont make a difference (Appreciable and only measurable with some really good gear) if you fill the bullet connector with solder or fold
the wire and use less solder. Obviously a good solder connection (no cold joint) will be a big help.
A bullet connector is not a great connection it relies solely on friction but it's what we have to work with and for what we build it's plenty good the key is using the right
solder. Here is a good read on solder the concept to understand is solidus temperature, liquidus temperature as it relates to solder rating you can ignore the portion
about downhole electronics its not really important but all the other info is really good. http://www.logwell.com/tech/servtips/solder.html
Hopefully this adds to the discussionComment
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Another question I have is "How" the wire should be inside the connector.
Right now if I have a 14g wire inside a 4mm connector there is a bunch of extra space inside the bullet hole, normally thats filed with lead.
I'm wondering if it would be better to remove more of the wire insulation and "bunch" up the wire and jam it inside the hole so there isnt so much extra space.
But my suspicion is that the solder used in the original bullets you are desoldering and replacing is a RoHS lead free compliant that the European and Chinese have been using for several years (the ero folks since the late 90's/ early 2000's). Thus the lead free tinned ends of your wires may very well not be blending with the current solder you are using,.... so the while the joints might appear to not have cold solder joints where you can see the work thats been done, inside the conductor strands the "new" solder never melts correctly to bond. That is certainly a posibility. And the way to fix that is to cut off any wire that has old solder. Try it with clean copper wire or wire that is tinned with the newer solder you have on hand and then fill the bullet with as much as possible. I guess what I am saying is the likely culprit is the contaminant solder since its lead free and your adding a different blend from the original. Just my 2 cents.
JohnChange is the one ConstantComment
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Thanks for the info. i will be reading the article and trying a few new things. Especially cutting off of the soldered endsSteven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!Comment
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Use the highest temp. highest silver content solder you can find.
If you look at a conductivity chart silver is at the top.
The solder doesn't have to come with flux inside it, you can buy rosin flux at Radio shack.
We found some with 6% silver.
T.C.Comment
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