Wire drive shafts

[Steven Vaccaro]

For those of you who like to build your own shafts, I now have
these .062 3/16 to 1/8 shafts.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=oct-31618sft

[Darin Jordan]

Nice!!

(note to self......add to list of things to buy next... )

[JimClark]

Next .062 to .125?

[crazzy maxx]

very nice


btw i got my radio today.
thanks

[Steven Vaccaro]

Next .062 to .125?

Sorry Jim there just isnt enough call for them.

[JimClark]

I don't understand why the prefered version is the 3/16 step down to 1/18th. It is much easier to get good bearings for a straight 1/8 stub? I guess there is something I am missing something.
Jim

[Steven Vaccaro]

Not sure what other people think, but personally I dont use ball bearings because they wear out far to fast when used in water. Thats why I stick with the lead teflon. Again thats me personally.

[JimClark]

The Bearings I bought from Boca bearings lasted fine but I took them out and soaked them in alcoohl and then oil when not in use some were going on two years of racing and just fine. Much less friction in the drive system.

Not sure what other people think, but personally I dont use ball bearings because they wear out far to fast when used in water. Thats why I stick with the lead teflon. Again thats me personally.

[Steven Vaccaro]

I agree, but many people including myself wont go to the extra effort needed to keep them in top shape.

[Jeff Wohlt]

I have been building some 1/8" stepped up to 3/16 for someone in TX. He races with Jay T (fluid) I wondered if they held up and they say they have.

What you can do is then use .250 OD x .125 ID bearings in regular fuller or Octura struts.

I also make struts with bearings and Jim and Steve are correct...many do not want the maintenance. They certainly make a difference. I now use SS bearings with double seals.

Also, we decided to take the shields off the bearings and then they clean easliy with carb spray and easy to get lube in them. Something the Boca guy and me came up with. The sheild is not needed in water applications.

Also, you can get the SS/ceramic bearings where water is not an issue. and good for about 50,000 rpm.

DARIN, I thought you hated wire drives and would not use them because of past bad experience.

[JimClark]

But the stub Steve is showing would not have a long enough .125 dia section to do that.
Jim

I have been building some 1/8" stepped up to 3/16 for someone in TX. He races with Jay T (fluid) I wondered if they held up and they say they have.

What you can do is then use .250 OD x .125 ID bearings in regular fuller or Octura struts.

[Jeff Wohlt]

Jim, I build them the opposite. small to large. Same length as the Octura.

I was not sure an 1/8 shaft swinging a big old prop would not bend but nothing yet. They are drilled very deep so after the wire locks in it makes the shaft solid again....kind of.

It may be the way I run my smaller struts for now on. I think bearings in the strut are the way to go but I also have run them for years so the maintence is normal for me. Removing the shields is the way to go.(inner facing sheilds) Even a rear bearing where the prop is putting side thrust on the rear of the strut can make a big difference in resistance.

[Darin Jordan]

DARIN, I thought you hated wire drives and would not use them because of past bad experience.

Hmmmm... what was that... like TWO seasons ago...

I've adopted a technique of assembling them where I haven't had any problems losings stubs... I don't use premade stubs... I make my own from Stainless tubing and run the wire ALL the way through... Seems to work so far...

[Jeff Wohlt]

Cool....Originally we used KS brass with the wire all the way thru.

[Darin Jordan]

Cool....Originally we used KS brass with the wire all the way thru.

I've used both brass and stainless... The stainless seems to hold up better to the set screws on the wheel collars... Haven't had a failure since I started doing it this way...