Heat soak and motor temperature observations

[detox]

Water cooling would be more effective if water flow volume could be increased. The limited water flow through a very small 1/10" ID line and fitting is NOT enough for the larger Neu motors, but OK for the smaller UL-1 size motors.

[siberianhusky]

I don't think increasing flow is the answer at all, hard to get much cooler than slightly above ambient temps while running, the problem as I see it is what we are cooling, if the magnets in the can were causing the heat then more flow would help but the heat is being generated by the armature which we are not able to directly cool, basically you have air transferring heat to the can and you have the shaft of the armature transferring heat through the bearings to the can, if we can't transfer more heat to the can we can't remove it with water cooling.
The mass of the armature is what,s soaking up all that heat and transferring it to the can, the temps only shoot up after the water cooling is removed.
Some kind of continued cooling after the run will protect your equipment because you are removing the heat thats transferred to the can from the armature.
Motor can temps of no higher than 87F on a day where the air temp was close to that is pretty damn good cooling.
Water shoots at least a foot from both cooling exits, lots of volume there even for a bigger motor, they have more internal mass to absorb heat so would need further cooling even more than a lighter motor that would cool quicker.
I'd bet while were running those boats the armature is at least 140 degrees, probably a bit higher, we are protecting the magnets from this heat by cooling the can so they are not de-magging all the time.

[daveives]

The following link tells how to cool both the windings and the magnets.
It works great, believe it or not!

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ower-(Cheaply)

[siberianhusky]

Interesting, kinda pointless on anything but an outboard.