Octura collets and .187 flex

[LarrysDrifter]

I have a DF 33" mono with a Leopard 4082 1600kv on 6s1p and a T180 esc. I have an Aeromarine .187 flex and an Octura 5 x .187 collet. The motor end of the flex is soldered. The problem is the collet loses grip of the flex. It's a newer collet with 4 runs on it. I tightened it back up, ran again. Afterwards, I changed packs and the prop, and slip she goes again. The 1st prop was an X447/3 and the second was an X452/3 for a SAW pass.Im sure I haven't done anything wrong. Anyone have anything on this problem? Also, the collet nut is not cracked. Thanks for helpful input.

[carlcisneros]

if you have any staybrite solder or a plumbers solder containing SOME silver in it, add some of that solder onto the soldered area that you already have soldered.

it sounds like you might have used a standard type solder which WILL mash a bit when you really tighten up the flex hex.

I have done this for years and years and it works great fo me.

[LarrysDrifter]

I did use 60/40 solder on it. I have some Novak silver solder from LHS. I believe its 3% silver. Would that do it?

[m4a1usr]

I did use 60/40 solder on it. I have some Novak silver solder from LHS. I believe its 3% silver. Would that do it?

Larry,

The answer is staring right back at you. The end is soldered. So its encompassed in lead. Thats a lubricant. Most like likely your problem is the added solder exceeds the diameter of the steel wire on the exterior of the flex. Try putting the stubb shaft in a drill press or similar. Spin it up. Take some 80 grit cloth and take the soldered end down to the steel wrap. The coupler fingers will grip and your fixed!

I bet it doesnt loosen up again.

John

[LarrysDrifter]

Thanks, John, I'll try it. There isn't much on there, but its worth a shot. I've never had this problem before using the same drive train other hulls.

[m4a1usr]

Thanks, John, I'll try it. There isn't much on there, but its worth a shot. I've never had this problem before using the same drive train other hulls.

It is a long shot. Its just that some folks dont convey all the details when they expalin their problem. So the reader has to assume. The problem could very well be that coupler is machined wrong. There might be ridges inside the fingers. You know. The list could grow.

John

[detox]

I do not use solder. Be sure to tighten the collet down well.

Tighten collet down until you poot. If you crap you know you went too far.


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[Fluid]

Many folks just do not get the large Octura collets tight enough. A tip - put Never-Seaze on the collet threads and the conical mating surfaces. Not too much, just enough to very lightly coat the surfaces. This reduces the internal friction of the threads and conical surfaces, allowing the coupler to be made up tighter for a much improved grip on the cable.

I gave up soldering the ends of my flex cables years ago. I do put on a few drops of LockTite 603 on the end, but that's all. My cables last for years......


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[LarrysDrifter]

I measured the flex and its .183, not .187. Are there inconsistencies with flex's? Are they not exact? Thanks for the tip, Jay. Last time I didn't solder the end, the cable began to "open" a bit to where you could see the inner strands. This was used with a collet, not a coupler. I will try 603 on the end next time though, I just hate to have to pay for another flex again, but, I guess that's part of the hobby. I wish Steve would get more Hugheys in stock. I've had better luck with those over Hyperformance and Aeromarine.

[Fluid]

Yes, one thing I forgot to mention is that I use ONLY Hughey cables.


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[detox]

My Aeromarine .187 flex cable (cable diameter .183", prop shaft .188")

My Hughey .187 flex cable (cable diameter .184", prop shaft .187")


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