opinions b4 I glass please

[millzee]

Hi, I'd like a few of you guy's who have set up a mean machine to let me know of any tip's you may have, eg. things that you have become a problem down the track that you wish you'd picked up while setting it up. So far I've stripped a rtr back and have made a mount for a 1717 that will allow me to use a cooling can, I've used rails and have made sure I can adjust the motor angle. I'm planing on reinforcing the entire interior of the hull with heavy fiber glass matt and filling the front under deck with spray foam for both floatation and strength. I was thinking of laying carbon cloth across the bottom, now I'm hoping I may be able to get away with just the glass because of my rail set up. I've found this hull to be quite thin, very flimsy, are all the rtr MM's this way?
Here's a few pic's so you can see where I'm at, please take a look and let me know if you think things should change before I go sticking this thing all together.
Thanks
Danny
Here's my preferred layout


Side view show's how the water outlet on the top of the cooling can just misses the top of the hatch by a few mm's.

My other option could see all the electronic's up the back, I'm a little worried that the caps and esc may be a tad close to the coupler and stuffing tube.

And one for giggles that'll be a trip ride when finished, a x450/3 with the tongues removed,

[Flying Scotsman]

Looks very tidy, I would move the ESC from your proposed position. I do not own a Mean Machine and therefore cannot offer tweaks thay may enhance the hulls performace. I hope some MM guys chime in. Also what batteries, ESC and that prop may be a wee bit too much.

Douggie

[millzee]

Looks very tidy, I would move the ESC from your proposed position. I do not own a Mean Machine and therefore cannot offer tweaks thay may enhance the hulls performace. I hope some MM guys chime in. Also what batteries, ESC and that prop may be a wee bit too much.

Douggie

I agree, the prop was just little giggle, I'll be using a t180 with 6s 45-90c 5000mAh nano-tech's 2p with I'm guessing a m447, m445 or m545 for my driving but this boat is for my kids so it'll run 4s 45-90c 5000mAh nano's 2p with a x442 with the tongues removed for most of it's life.

[LarrysDrifter]

I always use fg matting and polyester resin to re inforce my hulls. Works great and never any problems with poly resin as far as strength goes. It's cheap too.

[millzee]

I always use fg matting and polyester resin to re inforce my hulls. Works great and never any problems with poly resin as far as strength goes. It's cheap too.

good to know, that helps ease my mind on that, I'll use the carbon cloth on another build

[millzee]

any MM owners have any tips?

[Rumdog]

Make sure that your strut has the adjustability to be moved above the sponson bottoms. she'll be much more stable that way. I run esc in fron of the motor.

[dana]

yes milzee. i built an mm over the winter. i got it bare from ose and it had carbon already in it, but as you know from your t 29 make sure to sand sand sand before any fiberglass or carbon cloth. also you can run the seaking up front in the sponson like mine, gets it outta the way. the strut should be about 1/8 to 1/4 above sponson bottoms. your battery location looks good. heres a couple of pics of my subhatch. its waterproof, cause i know these hatches leak a ton if you dont. i used speedmaster mono hardware

[Fluid]

Carbon fiber offers much more stiffness than glass. The rails will add a bunch too.

I mounted my motor too far forward so I can't run a long motor with a jacket without hitting the streamlined hatch I bought.

The two RTR Mean Macnines I've seen were much lighter and thinner than my own MM I got from OSE. That one has no rails but I did put carbon fiber on the tunnel.


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[millzee]

Thats some good advice guy's, thanks. I love the sub hatch, I think I'll try that. This rtr is so thin and flimsy that I've had to be extra careful whilst sanding, at one spot I thought I nearly rubbed through