Strut Bushing

[JimClark]

I was wondering is anyone who has one of this style strut bushing could tell me if they are put together with lock tight of silver soldered?

[kookie_guy]

I was wondering is anyone who has one of this style strut bushing could tell me if they are put together with lock tight of silver soldered?

should be just a press fit.

[dana]

I was wondering is anyone who has one of this style strut bushing could tell me if they are put together with lock tight of silver soldered?

as far as i know, you do nothing. they are designed to slide and and out freely

[martin]

As allready stated their designed to float & rotate so you have the stub shaft rotate inside this bushing & this bushing also rotates in the strut. I believe this design reduces wear that you get with fixed bearings.

[monojeff]

Jim they are soldered.
They also make them with a flared end no soldering on that one.

Pretty sure your asking how they are made not how they are installed which yes as stated is press fit.

[monojeff]

Here ups an aticle on them for gas boats but obviously it's the same for FE just reduce the sizes. http://www.modelgasboats.com/Magazin...trut_Bushings/

[JimClark]

I know they float MonoJeff understood my question.
Thanks
Jim

[m4a1usr]

I was wondering is anyone who has one of this style strut bushing could tell me if they are put together with lock tight of silver soldered?

Jim,

That bushing you show is a machined bushing like those from Speedmaster or similar makers. They are NOT designed to be soldered or retained with some adhiesive product. They can be if your applications require it or if you feel the need. But they are sized to press fit into the standard K&N tubing sizes we use. They will not rotate or move if you get one from a quality bushing maker.

That model gas boat web site link is for making your own home brand bushings out of brass tubing. Those have too much gap or clearance on the stubb shaft. Dont bother with making those. The wall thickness is too little. Those you do need to solder because they move around to much. Not so with the machined bushings.

John

[JimClark]

Ok here are a couple of pictures of what I have. It is a Fullers Strut with some sort of sleeve in it that has a .187 ID to it. I use a .125 shaft so I need to step it down for the shaft and also the props are .187 ID so I need to shim for them also. Last year I made what you see which is a one piece brass tubing that shims for the prop and extends into the strut. I ran it one time and the temps were low to slightly warm and ran better than I expected. All my experience is with using bearings. I am not sure if the sleeve in the strut is lead Teflon or not. Any comments or suggestions are welcome to improve the system.

[m4a1usr]

From those pictures it looks like that Fullers Strut already has lead/teflon bearings installed? Are you sure you want to install a brass bushing in conjunction with those already in there? So you are using the brass bushing like a filler?

John

[JimClark]

If I didn't use the brass tube "like a filler" I would have to use a 3/16th shaft which is way overkill on these boats

[monojeff]

I see what your doing which is exactly what I thought.
The way you have it should work fine.
As for what I had mentioned in my PM about the oilite bushings they are Dumas Part#7011 they get red loctite in so you would have to remove the lead bushings then possibly machine out your strut depending on the id that is currently has.

Does the brass bushing you made spin inside the strut with the flex?
Either way you should be fine it's just going to wear down your existing strut bushing over time.

[JimClark]

Yes it is attached to the shaft with the drive dog set screw which goes through the brass tubing and contacts the stainless shaft.
Jim

I see what your doing which is exactly what I thought.
The way you have it should work fine.
As for what I had mentioned in my PM about the oilite bushings they are Dumas Part#7011 they get red loctite in so you would have to remove the lead bushings then possibly machine out your strut depending on the id that is currently has.

Does the brass bushing you made spin inside the strut with the flex?
Either way you should be fine it's just going to wear down your existing strut bushing over time.

[monojeff]

You should not have a problem with it as it acts like a spacer.
Worst case scenario the lead bushings get worn out which they would anyways with a stub shaft so you should be good to go.

You did the non conventional fix and nothing wrong with that.