Tapeless T29 sub hatch

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  • millzee
    Ozzie Bloke
    • Nov 2010
    • 1092

    #1

    Tapeless T29 sub hatch

    Hi, I've been playing around and trying to come up with a way to do a sub hatch on my t29. I don't wish to add a inner lip so I cut a piece of 3mm perspex and shaped it to fit on the factory lip. This seemed fine until I taped it, the thickness of the electrical tape made a very tight fit for the hatch and was quite difficult to tape, I was nearly going to give up and just keep taping the outside of the hatch. After a few days thinking about it I went to the hardware in a search for a solution and found some water proof rubber seal, it's self adhesive and very thin so I thought I'd give it a go. After more thought I decided to stick it to the edges of the perspex and after some testing, I'm hoping it'll be my answer.
    Here's the Sub hatch



    This is how it sit's



    Now to hold it all down, the front is just a pop rivet and the rear is bolted which applys the pressure to squash the foam seal flat.




    After app. 1/2 hour upside down in the tub, with me pushing the hull under water and moving it around as much as I could in a small bath, everything come out dry, well, I'll have to have a towel ready when I remove the hatch as water builds up around the bolts and the sub hatch seal, but with a pat down, no water got inside the hull.




    I think I might fill the hatch with foam and seal it to produce a flat bottom in order to add an even pressure (and strength) across all the perspex area and I'm guessing that if I keep an eye on the seal and make sure it's in good condition, it should hold up pretty well, would you agree??
    http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
    "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"
  • steveo
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 1454

    #2
    dude good job i hate taping down sub hatch or cowls its a pain and it looks ugly

    Comment

    • dag-nabit
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2011
      • 775

      #3
      Nice work. Hope it continues to work well for you over the long haul.

      Kevin

      Comment

      • dana
        Banned
        • Mar 2010
        • 3573

        #4
        i cut pool noddles in half the long way and glue them under the hatch, and if i make them protrude a small amount it puts a nice pressure on the subhatch and insures it doesnt move

        Comment

        • millzee
          Ozzie Bloke
          • Nov 2010
          • 1092

          #5
          Originally posted by dana
          i cut pool noddles in half the long way and glue them under the hatch, and if i make them protrude a small amount it puts a nice pressure on the subhatch and insures it doesnt move
          cool, nice easy fix, I like it
          http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
          "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

          Comment

          • properchopper
            • Apr 2007
            • 6968

            #6
            Excellent job
            2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
            2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
            '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

            Comment

            • millzee
              Ozzie Bloke
              • Nov 2010
              • 1092

              #7
              Thanks guy's, I will be the first to let you know if it fails
              http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
              "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

              Comment

              • properchopper
                • Apr 2007
                • 6968

                #8
                Hatch retention ? I don't need no steenkin' hatch retention



                (watch end of vid )
                2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                Comment

                • millzee
                  Ozzie Bloke
                  • Nov 2010
                  • 1092

                  #9
                  Originally posted by properchopper
                  Hatch retention ? I don't need no steenkin' hatch retention



                  (watch end of vid )
                  Damn!, that looked costly.
                  http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
                  "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

                  Comment

                  • properchopper
                    • Apr 2007
                    • 6968

                    #10
                    Originally posted by millzee
                    Damn!, that looked costly.
                    Didn't cost a dime. Insides got stirred up some, but nothing broke. Aero hulls are Solid !
                    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
                    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
                    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

                    Comment

                    • 6sHyper
                      <<<Surfs up!
                      • Jan 2011
                      • 597

                      #11
                      Nice Milzee, i didn't even think of a sub hatch i just added it and run the top hatch, i'm still taping mine though since ive been having some good flips while dialing my 35 in but now that i got her dialed i'll probably run it without tape.

                      tell me how did you use the pop rivet to secure the front of the hatch?? i just got a new replacement hatch for mine and i dont want to run the 2 front locks/wingnuts with it.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment

                      • millzee
                        Ozzie Bloke
                        • Nov 2010
                        • 1092

                        #12
                        I half pulled the pop rivet as if using it in order to make the end bulge, drilled a hole the same diameter as the thin part of the pop rivet, then pushed the thin end through the hole from inside the hull under the deck. To keep it in place and keep water out yet still allowing for some movement, I use blu tack, a lot of it. The blu tack fills the v-grove the full width of the deck. Then I just lined up the hatch with the pop rivet and drilled another hole. I'm thinking that this will need reinforcing as I wouldn't want the front of the hatch to split cause the results could be very dampening

                        Here's a pic:

                        http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
                        "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

                        Comment

                        • dana
                          Banned
                          • Mar 2010
                          • 3573

                          #13
                          [QUOTE=6sHyper;324459]Nice Milzee, i didn't even think of a sub hatch i just added it and run the top hatch, i'm still taping mine though since ive been having some good flips while dialing my 35 in but now that i got her dialed i'll probably run it without tape.

                          tell me how did you use the pop rivet to secure the front of the hatch?? i just got a new replacement hatch for mine and i dont want to run the 2 front locks/wingnuts with it.[/QUOTyou can also put pins in the hatch and drill corresponding holes in the hull, then glue blocks of styrofoam in behind the holes and push the pins into it. nice watertight way to pin

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