Help with a Drive Shaft issue

[electric]

Well, my InsaneFE which never had an issue finally had one. The drive shaft failed. After looking at it a bit, I kinda think I may have over torqued the collet and possibly bent it thus leading to the drive shaft failure. The collet came apart as I attempted to loosen it.

So here is my question. Is 3/4" between the collet end and the drive shaft too much? Hoping I can get away with that big a gap and have it work ok. Anyone ever run with a gap that big??

If it is to big a gap, how the heck do I get the well epoxied shaft out of the hull of the boat. I am familar with the blow dryer technique, just not sure if I can really get the glue soft enough to get the copper shaft out? Need someone to tell me it is possible or offer another suggestion?

Thanks.

[martin]

A soldering iron works quite well to soften epoxy around a tube, Simply hold the iron on the tube near the epoxy

[Boatman]

Yeah, I think that is getting to be quite a distance between coupler and drive tube. perhaps if you don't feel safe getting the tube out you can get a longer coupler or have one made from Jeff Wohlt. A few dollars and a few days out of the water could save frustration. I have never had to "neatly" remove a tube. Another idea is to not run teflon if you are and shove a new tube inside that one just one size smaller.

[keithbradley]

Thats a larger gap than what I would feel comfortable with.

I dont know about a hair dryer, but I use a heat gun and it does work, quite easily. It's definitely worth it to take it out and do it right. Everything is already in the boat (motor,strut, ect), so it should only take a few minutes to make a nice new stufing tube. Getting the old one out should only take 2 or 3 minutes as well.

[electric]

A soldering iron works quite well to soften epoxy around a tube, Simply hold the iron on the tube near the epoxy

This is a great idea, copper is conductive should end up heating just where it needs to be heated. I will give it a try tonight.

Thanks to all for the help, I will give it a try and see if I can get this thing safely out of the hull.

[electric]

Well, it worked perfectly. Heated up the copper tube and slid it right out, no big deal at all. Working on the new shaft as we speak. Thanks again.

[Fluid]

Glad it worked well for you, that's the best method for removing tubing. A heat gun can warp a hull, done it and won't try it again.

The length of gap depends on the size of the cable. A 1/4" cable can handle a 3/4" gap, but not a 0.150" cable. A gap of 3/8" would be the largest I'd like with that cable in one of my boats. My FE-30 has a gap of 3/16" with its 0.150" cable.



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