Awe! Dang it! I'll race ya! I have to do that too.
I've been admiring the pics of the JAGS boats for years. I've wanted to build a for real streamline SAW rigger for years. Maybe just to prove to myself that I can. I DO NOT mean to imply that I'm capable of reaching the speeds that the JAGS team has. Fast is fun though.
First the 1/8 scale this summer. Then this winter a couple new riggers.
This Whip is pretty streamline for a sport hydro. Might make a good saw sport. No time though.
I'm digging this up since I have a Whip40 kit, a 1717 and 6s2p.
What do you think of me trying to run the 1717 motor on 6S1P? I have the Dinogy 65C 5000mah packs and they are too big as a pair for this hull so far... as I can tell???
Anyway any input would be nice.
Can you get a second set of that hardware made?? I doubt it...
I'd like to do the transom tha same way you did but, that ain't easy!!
Ray, that should work. You wont likely need 10000mah. The biggest set I've had in there were a pair of 4200's. The Dynogy 3750's have been the best for the boat thus far. Ran some 3300's but they come in a little pissed off. Not smoldering but still not happy.
The guy that cuts that hardware does it for me in his spare time at work of which there isn't much. Took him a few months to cut the hardware for the Q rigger I'm building. I'll get some pictures of that after I get one pulled from the molds.
It should be a fun build like my Whip 20 was. Unfortunately, P-sport Hydro is dead in these parts and it collects dust. Great build and I don't really want to sell it.
I tried 3 different fins on it and ended up back to the original fin. That's a Top Secret Boats fin. This thing was unbeatable for a while and then I broke the strut bracket reefing on it too much. Design flaw on my part. So I had Eric cut me a new one with a bit more meat and I didn't countersink the screw heads that hold the strut in place. It's less streamline but much more solid. Anyway, I still haven't got the boat back to where it was before. It's close though. The hop is nearly gone.
For our last race I dropped down to a 1527 because the 2215 is just stupid. You come into the turns way to hot. Hanging 6G's on the fin easy. Plus you can't get the attitude right with the small prop and high RPM produced. The 1527/1y is THE perfect motor for Q sport. Just the right blend of blade and torque. Much less violent a setup. The 2215 is great if your just going to go straight but there is no point coming into the turns at 75 mph with boats this size. My opinion of course. Results may vary. haha You've seen it run Ray. It's nonsense. No reason to go that fast unless you're going to run open with it. Even then probably not necessary. Only 1 in 10 open riggers actually finish.
Shoot for as much rotor as you can muster in the 1250kv range. That would be my goal. The right rpm with a gobs of torque.
The 2215 is going to end up in my rigger this spring. Can NOT wait to get that on the water. I call it the BarraQuda. The hardware is even more outrageous than the gear on this one. Trans is .25" tall. Muhahahahaha! Tub is at the composite shop right now for molding. I was making a mess of it so I gave it to my expert.
Piecing together my SP40 kit the stringers are a bit warped so should I soak them a bit in hot water then put on flat surface under pressure to dry straight?
I could jig it up after tacking it up.
If I go to a Leopard 4092 1300kv'ish instead of the 1580KV 1717 motor I could go smaller on esc and run my 5000mah 6S Dinogy in 1P??? What do you think sir?
Can't afford a Neu but, never know when a used one will come up. Missed some good deals this winter.
Had setbacks from building this winter so I'm playing catch up right now.
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