Cunard Help

[circus162]

Hey Guys,
I bought this bare cunard hull so long ago that I'd forgotten about it. Well I found it this winter and figured what the heck and gave it a try. The ice finally melted on the pond last week, so I went to give her a try. During the built I noticed that the Right sponson was 3/8" deeper than the left, so I didn't think I'd need a skid fin. WRONG. She ran great SAW but wouldn't turn. My question is skid fin location. Should I mount it on the inside of the sponson (vintage hydro style), or on the back of the sponson.
Also, any idea on where C/G should be?
Thanks,
Rich

[D&D]

Wished I would remember all of the facts, but Mike (fill in last name) used to build the most popular Carnard boat in the country, he bought it from a guy in Washington state and later sold it back to another guy in Washington. Anyway, I do remeber that the boats can be very sensitive to setup and the CG and the strut settings are critical. Sorry that I do not remember those setting, after all these years, but would suggest that you leave room for battery movement to help with the CG. Also, carefully test and keep records on your strut depth - as I remember the boat has a tendancy to stuff unless the strut adjustment is just right. Good Luck

[carlcisneros]

the boat you are talking about D&D is a Fisher Canard.

The one here is a Stalletto (or a copy of one).
It is BEST set up with the rudder on the RIGHT SIDE of the strut.

The CG is rather critical and when running, it should be just barley touch the
water with the front shoe (sponson).

and yes, it will stuff the nose if the strut angle and depth is out of adjustment.

I know, been there, done that, got the shirt. LOL

[Fluid]

Ed Fisher had the most successful canard (not cunard) hulls and did very well with them, he did not use turn fins on his designs. Tom Dudley in the Seattle area ended up with some of Ed's molds and designs in the early '90s but he has since disappeared.

It appears that your hull is a splash of the Dagger Boats Stiletto canard from the 1980s. CG is critical with canards as is strut depth/angle. CG on the few canards I ran was about 25% forward of the transom - it appears that your CG is way too far forward. Move the CG as far back as you can (put packs behind the motor) and adjust the strut so that the bow does not touch the water at full speed in the straights. The Stiletto did not use a fin but this splash may not turn without one.

A firm called Kinetics sold an FE canard in the mid-90s and it used a turn fin mounted on the outside of the sponson at the CG. Mounting the fin on either the inside or outside of the sponons will result in poor turning as the spray off the fin will lift the right side of the boat. You can eliminate some of this by mounting the fin on the outside of the sponson using 1/2" long round spacers around the screws between the hull and the fin. This allows the spray to go up without hitting the hull full force.

What power are you using in your canard?



.

[carlcisneros]

move everything back to the rear of the boat. especially the batteries.

the motor you have in there looks a bit smallish, all depends on what it actually is.

props used should be the Octura X series.

that hull should turn on a dime and give you change back.

[Meniscus]

Canard information from the web and parties that have run them:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t=canard+plans

Be sure to read to the later posts. There is a lot of good information there that may be helpful.

[circus162]

The hulls 36" long
Motor is Nemesis 540 7XL on 4S1P5000
Only prop I've tried is X640

[Meniscus]

It's only hearsay, but I have been told that these models in particular like a more shallow strut depth. Perhaps that's something to try.

[circus162]

Thanks for the heads up on the Canard Thread. I tried a search before posting but spelled canard wrong. Lots of great info.
Thanks