How to make a 24mm water jacket

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  • SweetAccord
    Speed Passion
    • Oct 2007
    • 1302

    #16
    Originally posted by martin
    Pvc or any other type of plastic is fine for cooling jackets as its the cold water flow thats cooling the motor. The only time you might have a problem with plastic is if theirs something wrong with waterflow or with your set up re motor & or esc settings & things start running a bit hotter, Where an aluminium jacket would probably be a bit more forgiving re disapation. Take the Spartan as an example of over heating problems, Fitting an aluminium jacket over the silicon one was a step in the right direction re cooling but it still had many other issues re cooling that have been disscused many times & still continues to be. Thanks Martin.
    I agree. It will all depend on what the current setup is which is more applicable; if you are trying to push the limits on a system aluminum is better, if you are not pushing the limits you safe with alternative methods.

    I already had these 28mm jackets, and for two for well made machined coated jackets at $3.56 is a steal, but then I realized the size was wrong. But I was able to use them so on top of that solved the additional issues of no 2445 water jackets being readily available. I don't like to custom make something when it's already made and may be utilized. Work smarter not harder is my way of thinking. Total cost: $5.00 for two 2445 water jackets ready to go. No cutting or having to buy two nipples to add to the cost, no drilling. Other methods you would need to cut into the material to make the O-ring to sit in it to create a seal which is hard to do, or you would glue it, ew. I hate when I see motors that are glued to the water jacket O-rings or not, unless it's removable type sealant. If something is clogged or bent or broken it's hammer time when they are glued permanently like some Tenshock motors. Some people like to make things and that is fun also. Projects are good too.

    My other choice for the aluminum would be the weight savings. Alternative materials are not as light but probably not a huge difference but i always consider that.

    My only reason for this post was to "get" people thinking how to use what they already have and be creative to make this hobby affordable and fun instead of having to spend more, not what is better as each system (if you know what you are doing) will call for certain needs to run properly and optimally.

    Last edited by SweetAccord; 03-29-2011, 07:09 PM.

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    • FRED
      Senior Member
      • Jul 2007
      • 233

      #17
      I use pcv with 1/8" O rings and seal with conformal coating to seal it. If need be i can cut the rings and go from there. Like you say , go with what you have. I also flatten the pcv bottom, mainly in the area close to m/mount to get close to mount and the bottom and run a piece of paper in that area so i don't get vibration of motor and bottom. I make my own inlets and oulets out of 1/8" brass tubing and angle it so it is user friendly. The flow of water is more than i expected. have a good day!

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      • JackBlack26
        Senior Member
        • May 2007
        • 905

        #18
        Originally posted by martin
        Aluminium disapates heat much better than plastics, Hold a piece of aluminium tube & heat the other end & see how fast & how much heat reaches the cold end your holding, Heat dosnt travel very much along an equivalent plastic tube. This is why silicon cooling jackets are not as good as aluminium ones because they dont disapate heat as well. Thanks.
        I agree about the conductivity of aluminum but it seems that once the aluminum takes heat the water now has to transfer heat away from 2 items, and creating a heat plateau, or what we call running temperature. When I temp my motor the motor and the sleeve are always the same temperature. This backs up my theory that the water is working double time trying to keep the sleeve as cool as the motor. With Poly not taking heat on as efficiently as Aluminum, it seems like water would be cooling the motor much better creating a much better working cooling system.....Just a thought. Now I have to experiment and report my findings. I'm going to order a foot of tube for 40mm motors and one for my 1717 can. I'll let you guys know what I come up with.

        A good example of this is why most car manufacturers are moving to ABS intake manifolds in most production vehicles. The ABS doesn't attract as much heat as the aluminum, keeping intake temperatures lower, producing more HP. It's obvious air and water don't have the same heat conductivity properties. Just an example.

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        • siberianhusky
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Dec 2009
          • 2187

          #19
          But isn't the cooler also acting as a radiator? it isn't in contact itself with the motor (except the o rings) so what its doing is absorbing heat from the water and trying to transfer it to the air.
          The plastic one will not conduct heat from the water to the air as efficiently.
          Therefore wouldn't the water be the only thing doing the cooling in a plastic cooler vs the aluminum one transfering heat from the water to the air.
          WHere this all breaks down to some extent is the lack of airflow in the boat hull to remove heat from the cooler and hull interior.
          I'm not sure but my gut says the aluminum one would be a little cooler, I'd be surprised if it was enough to actually matter though. I think the plastic one relies solely on waterflow while the aluminum uses waterflow and convection.
          Heat will go from the aluminum cooler to the air in the hull until the air temp = the temp of the cooler. Then you would see no difference in cooling performance.
          LOL this is getting down to splitting hairs! Interesting though!
          Need finned aluminum coolers! might make a difference for the couple minutes of a race. Don't think it would help with extended sport running though.
          If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?

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          • JackBlack26
            Senior Member
            • May 2007
            • 905

            #20
            Husky, I Might be over thinking this at this point. I'm still going to have to make a Lexan sleeve for my 1717 because I don't think Steve will be restocking them now that Castle has sold out of them. I'll report back my findings.

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            • HRC
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2008
              • 328

              #21
              Hey Guys,
              Interesting post and this is what makes our hobby/sport fun. Helping each other with new ideas and shearing the results.
              May want to keep in mind the cooling jacket serves 2 functions.
              1. Helps with cooling the motor.
              2. Acts as a regulator/thermostat for the ESC.
              Getting the right water flow is very important for both the motor and ESC when using a single water supply. To much or to little flow will have a big effect on the heat removal results. Having the right flow can reduce ESC temp. as much as 30-40 degrees.
              Just thought I would share my testing results and a 55 gal. drum of rejects to show for it.
              Dave

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