700SC Motor Wiring and Specifications

[Brushless1]

Hey all,

Looking for some more advice . I have an offshore electric 700SC motor. Bought a while back and am finally getting around to an install in a MRP Fountain. Although I know the shaft size (5mm), I know nothing about the specifications, or after looking at it, the location for the wiring connections.

Look at the photo and tell me if I have the wiring connection locations correct and if so, where I can find insert pins to solder too? Also, where can I get the motor specifications to determine if this will be enough umph for the boat ?

Eventually, as time permits, I plan to show the progress of the build under the Boat building forum. What to iron out a few questions before I really get going though.

Thanks ahead of time for the advice!

[egneg]

The + and - connections are under the water cooling tubes where the schottky diode connects. If my memory is correct the red mark is the + side. It's what was commonly done to keep the brushes cool.

[Brushless1]

Excellent. Thanks, egneg.

Now, anyone have an idea on where I can get the rating specifications for this motor? Don't want to over power it..

[egneg]

I ran it with 12 sub-c GP-3300's. I had a Kyosho Hurricane with this motor direct drive and used a Prather 225 detongued. The 700SC replaced the Cordite SS1 - which was a very popular motor back in the day.

[Make-a-Wake]

Its a 12-14 cell motor.................your hull is fairly large at 40", although light, you may wanna go with 12 cells.

[m4a1usr]

If you have water cooling tubes on your motor connectors the purpose was intended for the cooling to be on your speed controller wire connections. Therefore, you would solder your speedo wires directly around the brass tubing. That kept the posts, the brushes and the wiring from coming apart as these got the hottest and could come apart due to heat. We no longer have that sort of issue with current brushless systems.

As far as specs of that motor, if I remember right, it is a 1600kv motor (approx), rated at 9.6 volts or 9 to 12 nimh cells, I havent used one in many, many years but there are some folks still running that setup. A bunch of guys probably still remember lots about that motor. Been too long for me.

John

[FRED]

700sc

40" boat with the 700sc, o ' boy! Better off with a 820 Grauper motor or a gas motor. Alot of hull to push. Gas would be better option and cheaper, too. Electric motors and lipos would cost a pretty penny.

[egneg]

Speed isn't everything - maybe run time is a consideration.

[Brushless1]

Egneg your right, its not so much the speed as much the cost with what I have lying around. this speed 700SC I have (its brand new) as well as a bunch of 3,500 NiMHs around.

As far as the hull, it can weigh more than 1 lb and likely is less. Its not fiberglass, its ABS. Its actually way lighter than a proboat shockwave 26 ABS hull.

Now that I know the voltage specification I know what max voltage to put in. I'm still a little unclear on why the cooling tubes are soldered into the voltage connection but, oh well. I'll give it a shot.

After I test this motor, ESC set-up, I will likely switch out with a NEU 1717 with a turnigy 100A marine ESC. However, until it rains money, I'm gonna use what I got lying around. I'll post a video of it when I'm done. This will likely become a test bed boat for various electric motor set ups. Ive attached a photo here of the original MRP dual motor set up. It still works. I thought about even using this motor just to see. Kinda fun just messin around with the old stuff.

[Make-a-Wake]

I bought one a while back on ebay..................its got a Feigao 580L in it on 6s. Goes 34...........not hugely fast, but runs cool and its a sturdy setup.

[Brushless1]

Yea, I saw that video. Very nice. Got me excited about tinkering with mine. Eventually like I said, I will likely get a NEU 1717 and upgrade, but for now, I am gonna just mess with what I got. Just the stinger, rudder, and other hardware I recently ordered here, I got $200 into it.

My 700SC motor, 50Amp esc, and NiMHs are free. Plus, I got a ton of servos and other stuff too just lying around. So far I have some nice paint at a cost of <$25.

[bwells]

I used that motor in a 32 NQD and ran it on 2 7 cell NiMH (16.8 volts) got 28 mph. Switched to 4s and got 31 even with lower voltage. I was told not to use more than 4s. The electrical connections are connected to the brushes, hence the heat and the reason for the cooling tubes. I also did a coil on it.

[Brushless1]

bwells,

I dont suppose you have a photo of the electrical connections do you? I still think its goofy to solder the wires directly to the brass tubes. In any case, the speed you mention is exactly what I want to see. 25-30MPH.

Thanks all for the help here!

[FRED]

700sc

Soldering to brass tubes is the best and only way, if i remember right. There's not much room for one thing to that little tab. Also try and solder the wiring and brass tube at one time. When you heat up the brass tube so you can solder the wiring, the tube falls off. The 12 gauge wire needs room of which you don't have. I remember annealing the brass tube in a half circle and placing pieces of wood under brass so it wouldn't fall down, took a fine tip iron to do the job and a steady hand. The cooling wasn't very effic. and looking back, a small computer would cool by sucking the heat way. Blowing air onto brushes invited dirt onto brushes.

[bwells]

Yeah, I remember it being a pain to do the soldering but I used the schotkey and cap wires to hold the tubing on then did the 12 gauge. Mine is UGLY but it works. I was thinking of a heatless soldering iron but have never seen one used and liquid solder was another thought but just never got around to it. My tubes are on one side of the tabs and I soldered the 12 AWG to the other.