Bending Aluminum

[T Nissen]

I'm going to be making a motor mount for a project that will have an aluminum faceplate. I was wanting to bend the sides at 90 deg angles to attach to the motor rails as opposed to having to bolt angle brackets to the faceplate. I plan on "machining" it from .100" 3003 basic aluminum. I have an 18" light duty metal brake but I think the material is too thick to cold bend. Can I simply torch heat the area and then bend it in the brake. I'm sure I can but I guess I wanted to know if that would compromise the integrity of the aluminum.

Any tips on doing this?

[keithbradley]

I'm going to be making a motor mount for a project that will have an aluminum faceplate. I was wanting to bend the sides at 90 deg angles to attach to the motor rails as opposed to having to bolt angle brackets to the faceplate. I plan on "machining" it from .100" 3003 basic aluminum. I have an 18" light duty metal brake but I think the material is too thick to cold bend. Can I simply torch heat the area and then bend it in the brake. I'm sure I can but I guess I wanted to know if that would compromise the integrity of the aluminum.

Any tips on doing this?

Yes, heating aluminum will comprimise the intergrity. It will more than likely make the bent part "bend back" easier. I work with aluminum tubing pre and post annealing all the time and its a pretty significant difference.

[MarkF]

Or you could buy the right width aluminum Channel to make motor mounts with. Most local metal supplies will sell you any length you want and it makes for a much better mount.

Mark

[T Nissen]

Now why in the world would I want to do that Mark, lol.

That never occured to me. Looking into it, Thanks!

[martin]

Just fabricate it by bolting angle on to the ends if you cant find any channel. Thanks Martin.

[AlanN]

I run a metal stamping factory. Family business. Some simple rules of thumb when forming aluminum are: If you can see or know the grain direction of the material (just like a piece of wood) form across the grain. There are different rules for different grades but the same principle: Use 1 to 1.5x the material thickness for the inside radius form. The higher the grade the larger the radius. Press brakes usually only form sharp inside radius. Watch for "orange peeling" on the outside of the form. This indicates that the material is starting to pull apart from itself. Heat can be applied to ease forming but will soften the material. You can put temper back into the material but it would require re-heating and a water bath. I do not have the exact formula....I rely on heat treaters to do that.

Most of the mounts I make are from 6061 or 7075. higher alloy and usually from T6(hard temper) T4 is softer and O is dead soft. And I usually machine some brackets from extruded alum instead of bending. It allows for more adjustment. 3000 grade will get you buy but if I were to go through the amount of work to machine it, it would be the better grade.

Good Luck.