1/8 scale ESC
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I'm overwhelmed by all your responses.
Thanking you again.
Here are some pics:Comment
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I have a castle ICE 160HV in the swap shop. It has a built in data logger and will tell you if over current is your problem. It also has a shutoff you can program to shut it down at a desired Amp draw. Im not just trying to pimp what I have for sale, I would reccomend on eeven if I wasnt selling mine. I have heard people pulling crazy amps (WAY more than 160) with these controllers without fail. I have not had good luck with the hydra controllers.Comment
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That could be part of the problem. Your flex cable, when under a load compresses. The length will shorten, depending on the length of the cable and the load on it. Generally we try to leave approximately the dia. of the cable's amount of a gap between the drive dog and strut. That spacer is causing all sorts of friction and could be loading up the motor making it pull a lot of amps.Comment
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Thank you for the kind words Terry.
Rich,
I noticed that you are running teflon. I stay away from it if I can and use just the brass tubing double walled and for best results with an oiler. This could be causing your line to load up and you would not be able to "see" it. 1/4" cable is tough to run at high rpm and keep the grease on the cable. I also try to use 3/16" cable if it can take the load. So far, I have have not had any issues with it in my scale.
My current scale project is an '88 Miller High Life. It would look really good with your Circus Circus next to it on the pond. And since we live close by (relatively) we should be able to try it this spring/summer.
ps I leave anywhere from 1/8"-1/4" space between my drive dog and strut. But my cable fits snugly in the brass tubing. Not much place for it to go.Comment
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Rumdog :
the dia from the flex as space between DD and strut ?
That's too much !
Use that amount of space between coupler and brass outertube !
Circus 162 : that extra spacer behind the strut : pulls the propshaft "out"of the strut, AND out of the BEARINGS ! Are you sure the front of the propshaft is still "supported/surrounded" by a bushing/bearing ???Comment
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A couple comments:
As mentioned above make sure you have about a 5/16" gap between the drive dog and the back of the strut. I would remove the teflon liner and run 5/16" brass tube. Next use a Speedmaster style strut bushing which runs directly inside the 5/16" brass tubing.
Have you ever checked for hot spots on the drive system? When you come back to the shore (once it runs consistently obviously) you should be able to touch the driveline without burning you finger. Warm to very warm is fine, but hot means something is binding. If you deceide to keep the teflon liner, religiously oil or grease it often as in even run or every other run.
1P is gonig to be a little hard on the esc pushing a big boat. Try with a very small prop X447 or even a 445. Something you know the boat should spin easy.
Also looks like you are only running air cooling on the motor. Better plan would be to liquid cool the motor.
Make sure the timing on the controller is set to a reasonable value. For a 1.5Y try 7.5 degrees to start.
TylerTyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WRComment
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I've got a E-powered Dumas Circus and a Dumas Miller... Both are fierce runners...
If your by the shop (RChobbies) you can bring it up and I can give it a once over. Sometimes a second set of eyes will catch something you missed...
We are in Waterford... corner of Telegraph and M-59...
RonComment
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Sorry to hijack the thread but it seemed fitting to ask. Man would that be fun!Comment
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