eventually... yes!
right now I have to cut out the parts for my prototype and then once I finish the fitting the design will be updated and lasered to make it easier.
@Jim, thanks.
:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::
i dont have a table saw so i use a jig saw. i set up a fence with 1/8 alum bar stock clamped to the wood. after the cut with the jig saw i clamp the bar stock to the cut edge and sand it. the sand paper only cuts the wood, not the bar stock so it comes out straight.
i dont have a table saw so i use a jig saw. i set up a fence with 1/8 alum bar stock clamped to the wood. after the cut with the jig saw i clamp the bar stock to the cut edge and sand it. the sand paper only cuts the wood, not the bar stock so it comes out straight.
interesting idea... I don't have a table saw either... nor do I have room for one... I may need to clean up the "cave" a bit.
thanks Chuck
:::::::::::::::. It's NEVER fast enough! .:::::::::::::::
Jan, how long is the piece ? When I make rails for a mono, I get a "close enough" cut with a sabre saw, then finish mill it with my belt sander which has a 12" span.
2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
'11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono
whatever you do just make sure to use the right blade so you dont tear it up. the guys on the boat next to me have been doing some wood work and had a table saw down there. i ran to the shop and bought a bunch of 1/8 and 1/4 ply. i just ripped the sheets into 1",1 1/4, 1 1/2 and made a pile of strips to have for next time. now i have about 4 of each in 1/8 and 1/4 sitting in a drawer.
I have a 4" Dremel table saw that I got at a flea market about 25 years ago. I picked up a bunch of blades and other accessories from Micro Mark 20+ years ago. It still works great after all these years. This picture is not my saw but you get the idea.
Never tried this but...
screw a jigsaw under a plywood "table" with a slot for the blade to come up through. Now clamp a level or some other straight edge for a fence the right distance from the blade and paralelle to it and rip away.
I imagine you would have to do a fair bit of sanding to clean up the edges.
If I tried it I would look for the widest blade I could find thats pretty fine toothed, that should run straighter and not chew up the plywood.
You can buy a fence contraption that bolts do a drillpress that works in conjunction with a sanding drum as a small thickness sander. I've seen them advertised at luthier supply places for small home shops.
Luthier places are actually a great source for small tools for people who build. My favorite tool is a miniature block plane with a 1/2" wide blade.
Cheers
If my boats upside down then who owns the one I thought I was driving the last two laps?
For anything up to 1/8" ply I just use a 3' steel rule as a straight edge & a Stanley knife. Might take 3 or 4 passes on the 1/8" ply but it's a nice clean cut on the line. Anything over that it's the trusty old 16" Ryobi scroll saw.
Cheers.
Paul.
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