If NAMBA runs it, someone sponsored will have all the classes around Proboat or Aqua Craft equipment. dah
Steve you know I love ya, but thats a giant load of crap. How many namba classes are based around aqua and proboat? 2 that I can think of. And those are 2 of the best classes and most participated.
Yes your correct......I am not interested, it will end up running 120a ESC and no limit on batteries or power
Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro
Steve you know I love ya, but thats a giant load of crap. How many namba classes are based around aqua and proboat? 2 that I can think of. And those are 2 of the best classes and most participated.
Steven, we've had lengthy discussion locally regarding what constitutes a mini or a micro. H&M definitions seem to be a little longer than some of the others.
I'm not saying it's right, but in my mind, a mini is a boat that can run a 380 size motor with given space for both the motor and an appropriate lipo to handle the amp draw in higher demand cases. A micro would be those models where a 380 size motor is too large, either for weight or physical size. Now, by that definition, small riggers can be overpowered with the space available, but for efficiency sake, there is a point where it becomes diminished gains based on weight or unreasonable due to the physical size of the ESC in some cases.
If we're talking race classes, I think we should look at the other end of the spectrum, much like they do in Europe. They have little to no limits to the size of the hulls, but limit the battery weight. With that mentality, you can build a longer hull with more attention to setup and efficiency while enabling additional capability to run in rougher water. At the same time, it keeps the classes competitive and allows for use of any equipment you choose. It also makes it simple to spec. Pull the battery, weigh it with the wires and connectors, and then determine if it meets the specs prescribed.
I know this is a lengthy response, but hopefully you understand my point of view. If you're looking for a straight answer, based on boats in the market classified by the manufacture as micro or mini, 17-17.5" is the point where it changes from micro to mini, with a maximum size for mini of around 23", again which would be the max size hull to reasonably run a 380L effectively. Of course, there are several 30" riggers that run on a 380L size, but those are exceptions to the rule and often times come from the folks in Europe that limit by battery weight.
Somewhere I had a spreadsheet with 40+ hulls from various manufacturers organized by the manufacturer determination of micro or mini. It's been a while, but I will see if I can find it.
Yes your correct......I am not interested, it will end up running 120a ESC and no limit on batteries or power
Steve you really have to get back into the game before complaining. I raced parts that retailed for the following, $100 motor with a $100 speed control in P mono and kept up with the pack. In the past it took a $300 motor and a $250 esc.
As for the Spec Rigger class you are saying are ProBoat and AquaCraft, the esc was $80 in my boat and the motor $60. The boat runs over 50mph. The price to race these days has dropped substantially.
Most ALL NAMBA classes are limited to 10,000mah. So you are off base with "no limit on batteries".
Interesting thoughts here. The American classes, many of them, run 10AH on batteries.
Originally posted by Meniscus
Steven, we've had lengthy discussion locally regarding what constitutes a mini or a micro. H&M definitions seem to be a little longer than some of the others.
I'm not saying it's right, but in my mind, a mini is a boat that can run a 380 size motor with given space for both the motor and an appropriate lipo to handle the amp draw in higher demand cases. A micro would be those models where a 380 size motor is too large, either for weight or physical size. Now, by that definition, small riggers can be overpowered with the space available, but for efficiency sake, there is a point where it becomes diminished gains based on weight or unreasonable due to the physical size of the ESC in some cases.
If we're talking race classes, I think we should look at the other end of the spectrum, much like they do in Europe. They have little to no limits to the size of the hulls, but limit the battery weight. With that mentality, you can build a longer hull with more attention to setup and efficiency while enabling additional capability to run in rougher water. At the same time, it keeps the classes competitive and allows for use of any equipment you choose. It also makes it simple to spec. Pull the battery, weigh it with the wires and connectors, and then determine if it meets the specs prescribed.
I know this is a lengthy response, but hopefully you understand my point of view. If you're looking for a straight answer, based on boats in the market classified by the manufacture as micro or mini, 17-17.5" is the point where it changes from micro to mini, with a maximum size for mini of around 23", again which would be the max size hull to reasonably run a 380L effectively. Of course, there are several 30" riggers that run on a 380L size, but those are exceptions to the rule and often times come from the folks in Europe that limit by battery weight.
Somewhere I had a spreadsheet with 40+ hulls from various manufacturers organized by the manufacturer determination of micro or mini. It's been a while, but I will see if I can find it.
10AH is joke for 4-5 lap rc racing......however, that's what people want, go for it.
Maybe a joke to you. But again, since you haven't used any of this stuff in a while, where is your real world testing coming from. My p mono boat is drawing well over 150 amps and the packs have 30-40% left at the end of a race. With one 5000mah pack the boat wouldn't make a complete heat and be drained below a safe point. So whats a joke to you is whats needed by us. Sure if we wanted we could limit the mah to 5000 and use smaller motors and props. But why do that. We want to go fast and these boats fill that need.
I know that you need it, I am just not interested in running 10AH, it's a joke to me. Maybe if I wanted to run as fast as possible for 10 mins, I would do it. Anyway, I am done. I want to see the list of boats the guy comes up with.
2220 watts is what your saying here, over 3 HP for P mono.
Originally posted by Steven Vaccaro
Maybe a joke to you. But again, since you haven't used any of this stuff in a while, where is your real world testing coming from. My p mono boat is drawing well over 150 amps and the packs have 30-40% left at the end of a race. With one 5000mah pack the boat wouldn't make a complete heat and be drained below a safe point. So whats a joke to you is whats needed by us. Sure if we wanted we could limit the mah to 5000 and use smaller motors and props. But why do that. We want to go fast and these boats fill that need.
Interesting thoughts here. The American classes, many of them, run 10AH on batteries.
Steve you know how this stuff works.
If clubs wanted to run other types of boats they could. The "Evil" Namba Organization isn't holding people back from running other types of boats. Its the club members that are deciding these things. For example, Cracker Box. This year it was a "exhibition" class, maybe if enough people like it, it will get voted on.
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