Made this coolig plate for my 3424 outrunner motor

[JackBlack26]

I wanted to share this but didn't know where to post it. Sorry if its in the wrong forum.

The MG is my first FE boat so please tell me if I'm heading the wrong direction here. Any imput is appreciated!!

I'm running a 3424 1800KV motor on 4S and the last time I ran it, it was a bit warm inside the boat. I could tell it was because of the lack of watercooling on the motor that was blowing hot air inside the boat, raising the ambient temperature of everything. I didn't have the same "heat" issue when I run my water cooled 1800kv 1512 with everything else being the same. I like the 3424 better because it's lighter than the 1512, has more torque, and less amp draw. Outrunner gets up to 130*, ESC is 89*, and LiPos vary but always under 100*, with a 42x55 Grim prop after about 4-5 minutes of run time.

I came across some "aluminum brazing rods" that I bought at a 1:1 boat show back in 06 which I though were cool but a bit "gimmicky". I also have some 3/16 L channel that widens to 1/4" at the "L". So I gave it a shot and this is what I came up with, with a jig saw, a Dremel, and a Map gas torch. Still haven't tested it but fits well and works in theory. Looks a bit rough though. Please let me know what you think.

[sailr]

Oughta work just fine! Good job!

[jac4412]

Anyone know of a good cooling can or coils that will fit that size motor? If not I think I'm going to make my own coil.. I haven't been too big of a fan of just using the motor mount as a cooling surface

[Alexgar]

these are outrunners so the can move you cant coil these

[jac4412]

I swear I've seen some racers have a small band around them

[jac4412]

I don't think it was metal.. obviously that would interfere... they don't make any type of cooling bands?

[Alexgar]

cooled mounts thats all ive seen i have a outrunner in a rigger and dont see how you could cool it

[JackBlack26]

Jac4412, that is the only way to water cool an outrunner, that I know of, other than the new Scorpion motors that someone posted earlier on another thread. They come with a water cooled head.

[keithbradley]

Nice to see people getting their hands dirty and making their own parts! I love custom stuff.

Let us know how it works.

I assume you're looking for constructive critisism, if not let me know and I will

If you used thicker aluminum and drilled holes through it rather than attaching tubes, it would be a much more efficent method of cooling. I think it will make a difference over no cooled mount at all, but not as good as a thicker peice of aluminum with holes in it.
Because:

-A thicker aluminum plate at the motor mounting point will dissapate heat better than a thinner one. Simple idea... the bigger the heat sink, the more cooling capacity it has.

-You are limited by your brazed joints. They dont look bad for brazed aluminum, but brazing aluminum is a rather poor method of bonding no matter how good you are. The better this bond is, the more heat gets from the motor to the aluminum plate, and then to the tubes/water.

-The tubes are bonded on one side to the plate. If the water ran through holes in an aluminum plate, the entire surface area of the water passing through has a chance to come in concact with the plate and remove heat energy. When tubes are bonded to the outside like in your fabrication, only a small percentage of the tube even touches the plate, so the water doesnt have much of a chance to absorb heat.

**Sorry to pick apart your peice. I dont really know you well enough to know if you want advice or not. I realize you made this out of what you had laying around, and you did a good job with what you had. Im just pointing a few things out, so if you someday find yourself in a hardware store getting materials to build another mount, you are aware of some of the advantages of doing another design. Make sure if you do decide to use a thicker mount in the future that you motor shaft is long enough.

[JackBlack26]

keithbradley, it's not criticism, its input I love to get my hands dirty any chance I get. I rather make it even if it's a little ugly, but functional, than buy cheap and useless, that looks pretty

I agree completely that if it were a solid piece with holes drilled for water passages it would be 100% more efficient than what I have com up with. But, I have no drill press and I have to make it down to the industrial supply warehouse near me(like home depot on steroids) to find the 1/8" bungs and a tap. I have 3/8" aluminum L channel, I just don't have the tools right now to create a plate like that. But I'm working my way there

I figure even if the ambient temperature inside the boat drops only a few degrees, it's a winning situation