603 or Solder

[tiqueman]

Putting together a twin boat w/ Castle 1520 1600KV motors. Using 3/16 shafts into stub shafts that if they come undone, Im going to lose bearings and parts that may be hard to replace. Ive not yet used the Loctite 603 but have heard many good reviews. Ive had one soldered cable come undone but thats one too many.

So which way should I go, and if its solder.. whats the best one to do it with. Currently I just use the "solder for non electric applications" from Ace hardware.

Thanks,
Scott

[photohoward1]

Putting together a twin boat w/ Castle 1520 1600KV motors. Using 3/16 shafts into stub shafts that if they come undone, Im going to lose bearings and parts that may be hard to replace. Ive not yet used the Loctite 603 but have heard many good reviews. Ive had one soldered cable come undone but thats one too many.

So which way should I go, and if its solder.. whats the best one to do it with. Currently I just use the "solder for non electric applications" from Ace hardware.

Thanks,
Scott

603 will never hold. (Good Stuff but no way) The shaft needs to be SILVER SOLDERED OR BRAISED. Some guys love making there own cables an are very good at it. Not me! I buy good ones from reputable dealers. Offshore would be one.

[carlcisneros]

Or if they are in stock, Areomarine sells them as well.

Carl

[tiqueman]

I need to assemble them myself, into the prop shafts that came w/ the drives. And they have to be the type that the cable slides into, not like the Hughy cables.

[bowzr6]

These are nice.. and fast shipping.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

[graill]

Try loctite 648 retaining compound (green). It is NOT a gap filler so you need a proper fit. Really good stuff. Never had a seperation even at high rpm.

603 is a cleaner type anerobic sealer and weaker than say the 640 series or 680 (some gap fill characteristics) series, which are both stronger by far, you just need very clean surfaces before bonding unlike the cheaper and weaker 603.

[scoota]

I use Loctite 638 here in OZ, High strength retaining compound , High visscosity , i swear by it have not lossed a flex shaft end since using it , its much stronger than solder .. But you MUST prepare & have clean surfaces before using it !!!!! READ this if you do use Loctite

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...mble-shaft.php

[tiqueman]

Try loctite 648 retaining compound (green). It is NOT a gap filler so you need a proper fit. Really good stuff. Never had a seperation even at high rpm.

603 is a cleaner type anerobic sealer and weaker than say the 640 series or 680 (some gap fill characteristics) series, which are both stronger by far, you just need very clean surfaces before bonding unlike the cheaper and weaker 603.

I use Loctite 638 here in OZ, High strength retaining compound , High visscosity , i swear by it have not lossed a flex shaft end since using it , its much stronger than solder .. But you MUST prepare & have clean surfaces before using it !!!!! READ this if you do use Loctite

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...mble-shaft.php

Thanks for the info guys. Im still undecided how I want to do it though..... Gunna go read that link and see if that pursuades me.

[martin]

638 is probably the best one to use as its the strongest with the largest gap filling, 648 is the weakest of the 3 mentioned but has a higher temperature capability which is probably no advantage in this situation. The 603 has better oil tolerance than the other 2. Martin.
603 638 648
diam clearance 0.1mm 0.25mm 0.15mm
shear strength 22.5N/mm 25N/mm 13.5N/mm
3260psi 3625psi 1957psi

[SweetAccord]

Loctite 603 is strong but for small drives like .098 wire drives etc. Loctite 638 is meant for parts with clearances between 0.002" to 0.010" radial. Loctite 680 is meant for parts with clearances up to 0.008". In other words, use 638 for items that easily slip on and use 680 for those that are either a light press fit or slightly looser. 680 should be plenty strong up to 3,500 PSI shear strength.

[dana]

i use a pure silver solder. you can get rolls of it at any radio shack. it's generally used in hvac or anywhere high pressure joints are being soldered. also you must clean the stubshaft and flex very well...and use flux, it cleans and helps solder adhear. never had a problem here

[tiqueman]

i use a pure silver solder. you can get rolls of it at any radio shack. it's generally used in hvac or anywhere high pressure joints are being soldered. also you must clean the stubshaft and flex very well...and use flux, it cleans and helps solder adhear. never had a problem here

Thats kinda the route Im thinking of going. I just cant seem to get "stuck" on glueing it. Plus if I kink a shaft or something, I can get it undone. I may start glueing some .150 shafts though, just to say I did it.

thank you all for the wealth of info.

[BHChieftain]

I like the idea of the "unsolder" option...

I had a situtation where I swapped out a motor on a tenshock mono1 that had a 4mm metric shaft, and with the new motor and coupler the existing flexcable was too short. Luckily the shaft was soldered to the cable and I was able to salvage the old shaft and install a new cable. Good thing as I was unable to find a replacement shaft for that boat...

Chief

[blackcat26]

For what it's worth I use 680 on my stuff and have never had a problem. Knock on wood......

[tiqueman]

I like the idea of the "unsolder" option...

I had a situtation where I swapped out a motor on a tenshock mono1 that had a 4mm metric shaft, and with the new motor and coupler the existing flexcable was too short. Luckily the shaft was soldered to the cable and I was able to salvage the old shaft and install a new cable. Good thing as I was unable to find a replacement shaft for that boat...

Chief

Yeah Im going w/ solder. After I thought about it, it makes the most sense for my application.