does everybody still solder the flex shaft at the coupler to keep it from unwrapping or is there a new method, or just not done?
soldering cut flex shaft
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Yes.Always solder the cut end of a flex.It will definitly unwravel itself if you dont.I use a 4"x4" block of wood to solder stuff on.I cut the flex to length,clean it with brake clean,dry it then tape it down to the block of wood.Hold the soldering iron to the end of the flex to get it hot,then add solder.I try to get solder down about and inch or so.Turn the flex over and make sure solder flowed there too.Its pretty easy.Just make sure the flex is clean as possible.You can sand the solder till it fits just right into the collet if you added too much and get a goober. -
Loctite 638 is amazing and no soldering needed but pricy. It's designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where bond gaps can approach 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. Applications include locking bushings and sleeves into housings and on shafts. Once cured within 72 hours it has the strength of steel, but green in color.
WARNING: If you use this method it's pain to remove. Need 482º degrees to remove.
Last edited by SweetAccord; 11-09-2010, 08:20 PM.Comment
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I never do it either.
I can inderstand it in a coupler with the grub screws, to stop it fraying, but the hex flex type of coupler don't need it. In fact the only ones I've seen come loose in a hex flex coupler & fall out the back of the boat have been soldered ones.
Paul.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Works for me. Haven't lost one yet.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Stevo.
Use a dremel tool with the thin cutoff blade. It makes a nice clean cut & chamfer it with light pressure.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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I never thought about using locktite instead of solder. Just might be a decent alternative providing you wipe off any excess that might increase the diameter of the flex. Food for thought.
All my SAW setups have soldered flex ends. Already been down that road of having the end unravel or weaken. Matter of fact an unsoldered flex is the only one where I have lost a complete drive line. To ensure they do not come out of the clamping fingers of the coupler the builder needs to ensure the solder is not built up over the steel wire wraps. Other wise the flex diameter could be mis shapened. Another factor for my success is I use silver solder. Not lead/tin. Which might behave like a lubricant in the coupler under load . YMMV but mine has not. Soldered is an insurance policy for me and it has never failed.
JohnChange is the one ConstantComment
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I like to have a cool rag there. I saturate the end with solder, then heat the end until the solder goes molten again, then wipe of the excess with a cool rag works perfect every time..
Fits perfect in the collet..Comment
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I stopped soldering the shaft ends years ago, just cut the end off clean with a cutting wheel. Then take that same end and hold it lightly against bench sander spinning and rotating it to give a nice rounded end instead of the raw cut ends and they won't unravel.- IMPBA Hall of Fame -
- IMPBA Hydro Technical Director -Comment
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But my buddy that has been soldering his cables for 30 years melts solder in a brass tube and then dips the end of the flex into the solder.Namba District 16
1/8 Miss U.S., 1/8 59 Maverick, 1/8 Executone, 1/8 Smokin Joes, MLGSX380, AC Pro40II Q Sport, AC Pro40II nitro,Twincraft mono 10s, Vision AOPC, VS1 FE, M34.Comment
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