O GREAT info, no clue that was a ABS hull. Carbon lining would be a must. Also stepping the power back would not be bad as well. Maybe a 4074 1400kv on 6s or even a ammo 36-88 might be a better option. Make/wake how would feel about the new provided power options, or 6s might be a bit much weight for the hull? Maybe the 1774 on 4s would be better. SO many options lol.
Motor/ESC and battery combo - will this work?
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I run 6s (2x3s)...........but they're 4000mah 20c's.......just medium sized lipos, the 80 amps constant is plenty for the 1260kv XL motor im running.........probably pulling 50 amps at most.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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Soooooo much useful info!
Diesel: Ok, I'll go for a pair of 4000mah instead.
If I stick with the 4082 1500kv plan, would there be any draw back with fitting a smaller prop to slow thing down? That way I can use a larger one later if I get the hull reinforced.
Make a wake: You think the hull will break?
How do I carbon line it? The problem I have is that you cant access the hull from the inside. I found a pic of a Super Hawaii that shows what I mean. There is a hatch at the back, so if there is something I could pour in to coat the inside that might work, although I have no idea what that something might be...Attached FilesStill in dry dock... But planning to get wet soon.Comment
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Simon...............what motor have you decided on? That will play a big part in what esc you need. As you can see in my vid, my 50 amp motor is almost too much for the hull and shoots it to mid 30's on speed. At this speed the hull starts to flex too much for a smooth ride. You're wanting to throw a 180/200 amp esc in a boat that doesnt need it. If you go Leopard, the 4074 2000kv is plenty for 4s, and with correct propping you can run it with a T180a for sure. You would more than likely be satisfied with a Feigao XL or the Ammo 3688 which both can put out in excess of 1200 watts and can be certainly ran on the 120, considering the stock 550's in the Hawaii Electric version put out 300 watts total.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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Maybe one more thing to mention is how to figure max rpm.
KV x Voltage=RPM
30,000 rpm is usually considered maximum.
Or you can stay as low as 28,000 rpm and run cooler temps?
I still have to learn a few things too myself.Comment
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Simon...............what motor have you decided on? That will play a big part in what esc you need. As you can see in my vid, my 50 amp motor is almost too much for the hull and shoots it to mid 30's on speed. At this speed the hull starts to flex too much for a smooth ride. You're wanting to throw a 180/200 amp esc in a boat that doesnt need it. If you go Leopard, the 4074 2000kv is plenty for 4s, and with correct propping you can run it with a T180a for sure. You would more than likely be satisfied with a Feigao XL or the Ammo 3688 which both can put out in excess of 1200 watts and can be certainly ran on the 120, considering the stock 550's in the Hawaii Electric version put out 300 watts total.
This hull flexing things sounds scaryWhat can I do to combat that? I think I need something I can pour into the hull then slosh around to coat everywhere inside. Any suggestions anyone?
Forescott: The Swordfish has a pulse amp rating of 230AStill in dry dock... But planning to get wet soon.Comment
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The hull is most likely a double layer.................an exterior hull and an interior hull formed together. Hard to get to as you said. Folks glass the inside of their hulls for strength.................dont know how you'd get to it..............maybe a resin type material to pour in and "slosh" as you mentioned.......never done that myself. Just run it like it is and see how it works out first i guess.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
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