Speed Controllers are a pain in the A**
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Yes, I did. That esc had been dunked though. the same day in my DF 33. I'm only assuming that is why it fried. I had ran that setup several times with no issues.Comment
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32" Toysport Triton, stepped hull, no flood chamber, 1515 1.5y NEU 1500kv motor, 180a Turnigy SC - running 6S, Aquacraft SV27 - currently running UL1 motor on 4S. Boat has seen 59mphrunning Feigao 11XL on 6S, 17" Velocity Minicat
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eeekkkkk this is no good on 6s for the turnigy 180.... I ran 4s with the internal bec.... try hooking up a battery pack for the reciever and removing the red wire (there are three wires going from esc to the reciever... remove the red wire out of the plug and tape it back)...... you may have just burned up the bec in the esc... it may still be useable....try it.... usually the servo wouldn't still work... but its worth a try.... 6s using the internal bec is not good practice on any LV esc..... in fact that boat has a nice fancy setup for a on/off switch to make using a external rxr battery easy....Comment
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Sweet. Makes sense. Thank you Jason. I bet the esc will still work. I'll check it out after the Ranger game. I have a pack from my nitro car.32" Toysport Triton, stepped hull, no flood chamber, 1515 1.5y NEU 1500kv motor, 180a Turnigy SC - running 6S, Aquacraft SV27 - currently running UL1 motor on 4S. Boat has seen 59mphrunning Feigao 11XL on 6S, 17" Velocity Minicat
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Remembering what a pain in the arse it was racing with a switch, I am damned glad we have ESCs now.Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.Comment
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BEC or no, a 1500kv motor on 6s with a s225 is gonna pull 200A. Theres your problem.Comment
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I had this problem on a T180. BEC just quit working. I plugged in a UBEC (Rx Pack) and viola. Eeeet worked again. Even programmed properly.FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.Comment
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i just killed my second CC hydra 120...
very similar to the first time. I am averaging one season per ESC before it is fried.
4s with an external BEC and 56 amps max, 27 avg. had it on the eagle tree data logger during the run. the boat flipped and it got wet.
the data logger is fine, the receiver is fine, the servo is fine, the BEC is fine. tested them all. the ESC is dead.
first time it was 3s with internal BEC and 80 amps. got wet, died.
these things are supposed to be waterproof. i guess not. time to send it back.Comment
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Water resistant.... Not waterproof.... Are you taping the boat up properly? Elctricity and water don't
mix well.... You shouldn't blame castle for this.... Did you try squeezing the trigger after it got wet? It you ever "dunk" an esc again don't try squeezing the throttle... Just get the boat unhook the batts and remove the esc fom the boat, remove the shrink, dip it in denatured alcahol and let it dry thouroughly ..... For a couple days..... I had a castle hydra sit at the bottom of the lake for 30 hours.... Still using it today now after a thorough dry out.... If ever you get a esc wet let it dry out before you attempt to use it again...
i just killed my second CC hydra 120...
very similar to the first time. I am averaging one season per ESC before it is fried.
4s with an external BEC and 56 amps max, 27 avg. had it on the eagle tree data logger during the run. the boat flipped and it got wet.
the data logger is fine, the receiver is fine, the servo is fine, the BEC is fine. tested them all. the ESC is dead.
first time it was 3s with internal BEC and 80 amps. got wet, died.
these things are supposed to be waterproof. i guess not. time to send it back.Comment
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The most common reasons why ESC fail:
- Always use enough battery for your setup. If you are drawing 200 amps, your packs must be able to deliver this power: 30C/5000 mAh is not enough and will eventually result in a burned ESC.
- Never run an ESC which is still wet/damp, waterproof or not. Put it away until it is dry.
- Never run an ESC at its maximum voltage rating, particularly at high amp draw.
- Never run a controller at its maximum amperage, regardless of what the specs are.
- Never run an ESC on a motor which has over heated and lost its magnets.
- Never run an ESC at high timing unless you have tried lower timing first.
- If the wires between the packs and ESC are longer than 8" total and you are drawing over 100 amps, add caps.
- Limit run times so as not to overheat the ESC.
- Don't expect cheap ESCs to perform like expensive ones. Just because Joe Dokes ran his $50 Curvagy 195amp controller for five years and it never failed doesn't mean you can use the same controller pulling 200 amps without problems.
Last but not least - RTFM. It is amazing to me how many problems - like the OP's here - are caused by not reading the manual (which at least used to say no BEC over 4S).
.ERROR 403 - This is not the page you are looking for
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