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" I need to know his setup, Exactly..."
Ian, with all due respect , IMO that simply duplicating the powerplant of a well setup boat from a highly experienced veteran FE racer like Mark isn't the magic "silver bullet" to achieve similiar results. I've been with Mark, who forgets every day more about FE than I'll ever learn, while he invests considerable time and effort applying small, incremental changes in things like strut depth and angle, fin location, CG, prop fundamentals, rudder orientation, prop work and such. Even asking a top racer [which I'm NOT] about his setup parameters borders on a breach of good etiquette , if I may be as bold to state. Don't mean to ruffle your (or anyone's) feathers, but that's how it is from my point of view anyway.
You know I'm there for you and will help anyway I can, but I gotta' tell it like it is.
The 1527 is very likely overkill for the most part and requires careful consideration to things like current draw and heat. Driving any boat at higher speeds also has its downsides; a mishandling setup can cause all kinds of hazards, trust me. The 1515 1Y [or it's copies] is a very good motor to get you into the sixties with decent overall package reliability. Oddly enough, I have two 1515 1Y's each ready for FE 30 duty, but my FE 30 with the UL-1 motor AND speed control, carefully setup and with a nice prop goes 55 mph all day with nary a hiccup & I'm in a realm where I can drive it without fear of what might happen so it's likely to stay with these components and afford me the opportunity to have a ball racing P-Spec whenever I can.
As a matter of fact, I play-raced Jan's identically set up mega-quick Dark Horse yesterday on the 1/6 mile oval and walked him in the straights and was way inside his boat in the turns until his wire drive let go - good fun ( Not for Jan) and I was in control all the time-NOT what would happen if I had a hotter setup.
Just my 2 pesos; had to get this off my chest
Cheers,
Tony
Ian, with all due respect , IMO that simply duplicating the powerplant of a well setup boat from a highly experienced veteran FE racer like Mark isn't the magic "silver bullet" to achieve similiar results. I've been with Mark, who forgets every day more about FE than I'll ever learn, while he invests considerable time and effort applying small, incremental changes in things like strut depth and angle, fin location, CG, prop fundamentals, rudder orientation, prop work and such. Even asking a top racer [which I'm NOT] about his setup parameters borders on a breach of good etiquette , if I may be as bold to state. Don't mean to ruffle your (or anyone's) feathers, but that's how it is from my point of view anyway.
You know I'm there for you and will help anyway I can, but I gotta' tell it like it is.The 1527 is very likely overkill for the most part and requires careful consideration to things like current draw and heat. Driving any boat at higher speeds also has its downsides; a mishandling setup can cause all kinds of hazards, trust me. The 1515 1Y [or it's copies] is a very good motor to get you into the sixties with decent overall package reliability. Oddly enough, I have two 1515 1Y's each ready for FE 30 duty, but my FE 30 with the UL-1 motor AND speed control, carefully setup and with a nice prop goes 55 mph all day with nary a hiccup & I'm in a realm where I can drive it without fear of what might happen so it's likely to stay with these components and afford me the opportunity to have a ball racing P-Spec whenever I can.
As a matter of fact, I play-raced Jan's identically set up mega-quick Dark Horse yesterday on the 1/6 mile oval and walked him in the straights and was way inside his boat in the turns until his wire drive let go - good fun ( Not for Jan) and I was in control all the time-NOT what would happen if I had a hotter setup.
Just my 2 pesos; had to get this off my chest
Cheers,
Tony
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