PSA- Metric 4mm Cable Systems

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  • FighterCat57
    "The" Fighter Cat
    • Apr 2010
    • 3480

    #1

    PSA- Metric 4mm Cable Systems

    I've received a few questions about how the stock cable systems work on the Apparition and Genesis cat, so here's a brief overview of the TFL hobbies/HOTR drive system. It's decent and works well when adjusted properly.


    Pros:
    Captive prop shaft, will not lose cable
    OEM, already installed on Apparition, Genesis & HOTR ARR models
    Inexpensive, complete kits available

    Cons:
    It's directional (like any other cable)
    Difficult to maintain, REQUIRES removal of strut to grease cable
    Hard prop shaft is mild steel, subject to rust over time
    No known US distributor, typically order only from Hong Kong
    (eBay, HOTR Head of the River)

    Drive System Parts:
    5mm - 4mm Hex Collet
    4mm dirctional lay cable with square end
    Brass stuffing tube w/teflon liner
    lead/teflon bushing strut
    steel hard prop shaft
    teflon washer
    Prop dog

    Photo 1: Complete strut assembly (is same for stingers)
    - Strut
    - Hard Prop Shaft (4mm threaded M4)
    - Prop Dog
    - Teflon Washer
    - Stuffing Tube w/Liner & 4mm Square End Cable

    Photo 2: Hex Collet (coupler)
    - 5mm motor side, 4mm Cable Side
    - Smooth end of 4mm cable

    Photo 3: Hard Prop Shaft installed w/teflon washer
    - The taper on shaft holds it captive
    - The teflon washer goes on between the strut and the prop dog
    - The set screw on the prop dog goes in the flat spot in the hard prop shaft.

    Photo 4: Hard prop shaft installed w/teflon washer and prop dog
    - Notice that there is NO GAP and the prop dog is snug against the strut.
    - Snug, not binding

    Photo 5: Completed strut assembly
    - The square end of the cable goes into the hard prop shaft
    - The brass tube slides into the strut, should be a tight fit
    - Optionally seal the brass tube to the strut with silicone or heat shrink tubing
    - Optionally use a piece of #128 brass tubing and install 3/16" prop.
    Attached Files
    FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.
  • Darin Jordan
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 8335

    #2
    However... this system REQUIRES that you remove the strut to lube the cable... something I do sometimes between race rounds, and at minimum before every race.

    I do like the idea of capturing the stub-shaft in the event of a cable break, but I think it needs to be done with a removable ferrul instead... one that slides over the shaft and captures the stub...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

    Comment

    • FighterCat57
      "The" Fighter Cat
      • Apr 2010
      • 3480

      #3
      Originally posted by Darin Jordan
      However... this system REQUIRES that you remove the strut to lube the cable... something I do sometimes between race rounds, and at minimum before every race.

      I do like the idea of capturing the stub-shaft in the event of a cable break, but I think it needs to be done with a removable ferrul instead... one that slides over the shaft and captures the stub...
      Added. Thanks!
      FighterCatRacing Team CHING BLING - Ching Bling. Brilliant, Advanced Sparkle for your hull.

      Comment

      • ozzie-crawl
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Sep 2008
        • 2865

        #4
        Dont know if you guys have one in your area,but here there is a marine cable specialist,they do cables for boats running from motor to hand throttle,speedo cable etc.
        they have rolls of cable and will cut to length what you need and square the end.
        they have both left and right lay and is the same as we use for the flex so its plated and not like the black mild steel Chinese cable

        Comment

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