Rough Water Setup Need Some Help

[Raylon]

Hey guys, I currently have MHZ-Shockwave for some sport running but I run in really rough waters, and the Shockwave will not flip itself back over. This results in about going out to get the boat about twice per battery. I run in waves from real boats, ranging from jetski's to 40' Fountains, etc. The Shockwave handles the chop excellently, it just sometimes hits a wave funny and will go over. I had the boat setup for 3s running but backed down to a 2s 5800 mAh, which I get about 30 mph and half hour run times. I am not a speed demon, I just like putting around.

So, what hulls are out there that would be good for self righting, and can get the crap beat out of them and it won't crack the hull? I always worry about hull fatigue with the Shockwave, it literally is just bouncing from one wave to the next, but so far it has done well. I have been looking at Etti hulls, but they are more for racing, and I doubt they handle waves well. Hopefully someone will have some input!

[Meniscus]

I think a good question to ask is, what is the distance between the "swells" that you encounter and what your budget is?

[Raylon]

Well, like I said, the waves are jetski size to 50' boat size, so let's say gigantic. The kind of waves that make a jetski go about ten feet in the air. I want to stay under $500, not including batteries, I already have 2 and 3 cell I would use.

[Peter Neves]

I set my leg as low as it could go and
Tilted up as much as possible then
Moved the ESC in the battery tray
To the very back left of the tray.
This will balance the hull quit well
Because it counter acts the torque
Twist.
Then move your battery to the front
Of the tray this helps stop the bow from
Getting to high out of the water also
Improved spinning out as easily

[Peter Neves]

One more thing that helped spinouts was I pulled
The turn fins back until they are about
The same hight as the center of the
Prop shaft.
This will also help reduce drag but mainly
Give the turn fins more leverage in the turn
They really don't need to be so deep as the
Boat does lean into turns.
This is how I run my shock wave at the
Moment hope this helps.

[Peter Neves]

So I have since cut the battery tray to put the battery
Length wise in the hull as low down as possible right
To the back this ment I had to relocate the servo .
I just epoxyed the servo mount I cut out and put it
To the left and made two plastic spacers and epoxyed
Them underneath the tray under the servo.
Now the Lipo is resting on the flex drive tube and siting
On the bottom of the hull at a slant, I used Velcrow on the back
Of the battery and made cut outs in the front of the tray
To use a battery strap for the front.
Did have to readjust the leg down to bring the
Bow down and put the turn fins deeper.
But what a big difference boat leans into turns
Better cuts harder and is extremely hard to tip.
But unfortunately it still spins out more than I would
Like.
So I thing it's time for a new hull that is actually
A deep v

[Peter Neves]

Oops I put the servo to the right not left!

[MR2NR]

The Kyosho Jet Stream 888 has a self righting feature that I am really looking at. I have a original Jetstream that I have converted to brushless and it takes me a while to flip it. Toysport also makes self righters but they are more pricey.

Three rules for stable setups

1. Low center of gravity with the CG also starting about 75% toward the rear of the boat. (Bow to transom and starbord to port.) Lining the keel of the boat with lead to compensate for batts and all if it's impossible to do with your setup.
2. Turn fins
3. High trim so your bow is higher than the rear when you are plained making as big of a wake as possible.

All of these will affect your speed so its give and take especially with 1 and 3.

I really think you will not be full proof playing with full size boats though. They even flip sometimes lol.IMG_0111.jpg

[NativePaul]

Pretty much any monohull can be made to self-right, the more freeboard they have the less stable they are upside down an the easier it is, and the shockwave had more freeboard than raceboats like the ETTIs and Deltaforces so the one you have would make a very good self-righting hull.

If you like the hull and setup but just don't like the fact that it doesn't self-right why not add a flood chamber to it so it does self-right? A sheet of thin glassfibre (for the flood chamber wall), a sheet of thin cardboard (for a template), a sharp knife (to cut the template to shape), a saw or dremel (to cut the glass wall to shape), Some glass cloth and Epoxy resin (to stick it in with and seal it up). Most modellers will have most of the stuff needed already needing only the glass sheet to be bough but even if you are just starting out in the hobby and have to buy it all including card from an art shop as you don't eat cereal, it should only cost you about 10% of your budget.

[MR2NR]

Pretty much any monohull can be made to self-right, the more freeboard they have the less stable they are upside down an the easier it is, and the shockwave had more freeboard than raceboats like the ETTIs and Deltaforces so the one you have would make a very good self-righting hull.

If you like the hull and setup but just don't like the fact that it doesn't self-right why not add a flood chamber to it so it does self-right? A sheet of thin glassfibre (for the flood chamber wall), a sheet of thin cardboard (for a template), a sharp knife (to cut the template to shape), a saw or dremel (to cut the glass wall to shape), Some glass cloth and Epoxy resin (to stick it in with and seal it up). Most modellers will have most of the stuff needed already needing only the glass sheet to be bough but even if you are just starting out in the hobby and have to buy it all including card from an art shop as you don't eat cereal, it should only cost you about 10% of your budget.

Thought about doing this as well but after trim tabs and turn fins I was out of space on the transom . I also hate cutting holes in the hull unless it's broke. It just creates a stress point that usually cracks out around it or from it especially in old hulls if you have a nice fiberglass hull I bet you'd be OK but ABS will prob be a headache. Also after you get done if you haven't counterweighted you will be heavy on that side. It would be too much work for me to mess with anyways.

[NativePaul]

OK I didn't know MHZ made ABS boats, a tunfin can be mounted to the gunwale as well as the transom, but mybe ABS isnt strong enough without reinforcement, you want the left side heavier anyway to counter torque roll.

Do you care how it looks when running? An empty plastic pop bottle taped to the top will normally do the trick too, effective but not elegant.