Double Your Motors Power (Cheaply)

[Jeepers]

because I wouldn't want water between the laminations in the iron (if you have an iron motor) or on the Neo magnets (which rust very easily).

Andy

I am sure this is why they used oil in the motor at my work. I know its a very light oil, I cant remember what it is though.

[daveives]

More Replies ..

Jeepers - This only uses water, oil is too complicated.
CornelP - Thanks, I agree completely.
befu - Yes, this is a heat removal method only. You can either increase amps, volts, or both. If only amps, you may need to cool the 3 motor input wires some. If only volts the input wires will not need any more cooling than with non-DWI system. I increased both up to the limits of my Turginy Marine ESC - 120 amps and 6S cells. Just enough water turns out to be what comes out from your water cooled ESC which does not impact efficiency very much. Just think how much water your prop is throwing into your rooster tail. The injected water is truly miniscule compared to the rooster tail. Open bearings may turn out to be the best, we will see. On the water-all-over issue, I note that the Traxxas waterproof servos actually seem to be waterproof (so far.) The ESC waterproofing can still be a problem. I have a separate post on that using Permatex Ultra Sensor Safe Silicone. YES, cheaper motors (disposable even) allow experimentation, that is how I started doing DWI. Water is either your enemy or your friend. For an ESC water is the enemy, for the Motor it is a friend, for the Traxxas servo it is a moot point, and for the battery you must waterproof as best you can. Thank you for your thought provoking feedback!
Brushless55 - YES! The inlet hole should be a fuel tubing size inlet at the front (forward most) uppermost (furthest from the water) part of the motor. The exit should be a larger (say 3/8") hole near the rear bottom of the motor. You want flow through the motor and not just filling the motor case. The exit can be piped to the transom with a one-way bailing valve (or you can isolate & vent the motor compartment from the rest of your boat equipment.)
Steve - Thanks for the encouragement.
Andy - Good thoughts! Rust of the magnets might be an issue, but my 3 year immersed MEGA 16/15/2 still runs great. I do not know what it's magnets are made of.
graill - Actually much simpler (no cooling jacket, just a tube glued to the motor air cooling port). My immersed Mega received absolutely no maintenance for the first 2.5 years. Only maintenance now is a squirt of Corrosion-X at the end of the day. I made no effort to atomize, the motor does it by itself. I was first surprised by the atomization, I did not expect it. For an outboard, no cowl or duct at all. For an inboard see the comment above. There is no flashover problem since this is a brushless motor technique only. My outboards are normally very wet all over anyway. I do not drink whiskey and April is loong gone. However I can certainly understand your response which is EXACTLY what I thought 5 months ago. I had bought a Jet Screamer 1400 outrunner for $30 at a Hobby-Lobby clearance sale and could not figure out how to cool it cheaply, so I just tried dumping the ESC outlet water into the top. To my surprise, it actually worked. Thanks for your feedback; I like your sign-off saying.

[Jeepers]

[QUOTE=daveives;187204]Jeepers - This only uses water, oil is too complicated.

/QUOTE]

I know thats it just water cooled, I was just saying that this type of application seems to work very well in cooling motors.

I don't think my boss would have agreed to use water to internally cool a $6000 dollar 40hp motor.

I actually like the fact that your trying it. as good as it works I don't think I will subject my Neu motors to it. I would how ever subject a Feiago motor to it!

[befu]

[QUOTE=Jeepers;187213]

Jeepers - This only uses water, oil is too complicated.

/QUOTE]

I know thats it just water cooled, I was just saying that this type of application seems to work very well in cooling motors.

I don't think my boss would have agreed to use water to internally cool a $6000 dollar 40hp motor.

Yeah, I had a 100hp TEFC motor outside that was installed wrong and water entered through the wires. motor ran fine, but it ended up taking out a bearing. Now this is a sealed bearing with grease, so once water was in it, only a mater of time with the exteme heating and cooling.

Brian

[Brushless55]

I may have to give the inrunner with water injection a try!

[Jeepers]

[QUOTE=befu;187215]

Yeah, I had a 100hp TEFC motor outside that was installed wrong and water entered through the wires. motor ran fine, but it ended up taking out a bearing. Now this is a sealed bearing with grease, so once water was in it, only a mater of time with the exteme heating and cooling.

Brian

I cringe every time it rains or snows, there are three TEFC"s outside at work and 2 of them are 50' off the ground. they suck to change.

[ray schrauwen]

This gives me an idea to just use a Radio box on my boats I plann to build with outrunners.

Why not just run a canopy with airflow (for inboard motors) as if it were a gas boat and a drain plug for bilge?

I'm going to do that for my 29" Promise cat & 4030-1100 Turnigy Outrunner. I may also try this in a 41" mmono and same Turnigy type motor, just 880Kv on 8S1P...

This is cool!~

[Amp User]

For inboard use you can use a mister nozzle light spray over the coils will keep from just drowning the motor thru the bells air intake inject from the high side of the mounted motor in a boat with a simple water over spray box around the motor with a drain hole. I would imagine less water would saturate the bearings. As the boat moves the water will drain out the box. Another way is just redue the bearing tube to have a outside jacket to directly cool the stator core without external misting and it directly cools the bearings without getting them wet as you see in this simple drawing. Just have the ends sealed. Anyone with say a 5mm axle could retrofit with a smaller axle and bearings set to allow at least a .5mm gap to for water circulation. I have a design like this but also I have a found a way to water cool the stator arms. My secret will remain my own for now, if your a manufacture and want to buy rights to my patent email me.

The system has no rust issues nothing external gets wet all aluminum contact that's cooled by H20.

[ray schrauwen]

robbing from Peter to pay Paul...?

[Simon.O.]

Yes I have read this thread from the top.
I want to sumerise.
Can I run a BL motor very wet or immersed in water as far as the electrical side is concerned ??

Bearings are another issue that I can deal with easily.
I have an idea for a new build that would be great if the motors can be wet (submerged) at rest but dry on the run.

It is essential that I can run a BL motor at med-high rpm in water for 2-5 seconds max and then it will be just wet.

[ED66677]

one could use liquid nitrogene to obtain supraconductivity in motor coils and increase motor efficiency!

[CornelP]

Yes I have read this thread from the top.
I want to sumerise.
Can I run a BL motor very wet or immersed in water as far as the electrical side is concerned ??

Yes, no problems.

[Simon.O.]

Yes, no problems.

THAT is the answer I need, Thank you Cornel.

[crabstick]

one could use liquid nitrogene to obtain supraconductivity in motor coils and increase motor efficiency!

just need liquid c02

[daveives]

Responses continued...

ray - Thanks for mentioning the 4030-1100 Turnigy Outrunner. I missed it, so I just ordered the last one HobbyCity had in stock. It weighs a little over double the HB3650 weight, so it should be able to handle about twice the power (maybe?)
simon - yes, you can run a brushless motor completely immersed as far as the electrical working is concerned. You can also run a brushed motor this way, that is how the pro's seat their brushes! My MiniCat OPC hydro brushless motor is partly submerged at rest, with no problems.
cornelP - right on!