***Mystery 200A Pentium ESC Water Cooled, Heatsink & Fan Conversion Walk Through***

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  • exotica
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 159

    #1

    ***Mystery 200A Pentium ESC Water Cooled, Heatsink & Fan Conversion Walk Through***

    Thought I would share...

    As some of you might be aware I decided to give one of these nasty ESC a go. For the money I would have to say they are bang for your buck. On my first outing with this ESC I ran 45mph, 9XL, 4S1P, X445 and still trying to fine tune the cats hull. Not fast to some of you but very happy on my first real run on the lake.

    As these ESC's are somewhat poorly made and have a tendency to overheat as I discovered, I decided that I would make some modifications to mine and add a water cooler and a much larger heatsink and fan to aid in the removal of heat generated by the IC's. The fan and heatsink come courtesy of an old Intel pc motherboard.

    The first step was to remove the original heatsink which imho is not big enough to handle the amount of heatsoak in needs to take in especially when running over 100amp constant in a confined area with no air flow. To achieve this was quite easy using a surgeons scalpal, as I found the original thermal conductive tape was bearly holding the heatsink on, no suprises there.



    I then peeled back the thermal tape from the heatsink that was removed and cleaned it up as it might come in handy someday for another project.



    The next step was to clean any residue still remaining ontop of the IC's as you can see in the next image. This was done with the scalpal again and cleaned back with methylated spirits. The image that follows is what it should look like after its cleaned.





    The next step was to prepare the new heatsink and fan for the installation on the ESC. Most Intel CPU heatsinks and fans are a two piece assembly and genarally require 12v to operate. When picking out a fan and heatsink ensure you chose one that has the lowest current draw you can find. This particular one has an amp draw of only 0.1amps, is brushless, but ive seen them as high as 1.6amps. This one I had also clips together which makes it a good choice and gives you two options to either run the heatsink on its own or utilize the fan as well while running or when its just come out of the water, which is what im planning to do with mine. As they are quite old they have accumulated some serious dust and needed a good clean. I unclipped the heatsink and washed it in warm soapy water. The fan was sprayed with methylated spirits and wipes down.



  • exotica
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2009
    • 159

    #2
    The next step was to now adhere the new monster heatsink to the IC's on the ESC using some new thermal conductive double sided tape. This tape is rated at 250deg celsius so no problems with adhesion at high temps. I measured the area out ensuring that every IC on the top deck was going to be covered with the thermal tape. At this stage I could have applied some thermal paste between the IC's to go that one step further. The piece was cut out and placed evenly over the IC's.









    Next, I clipped on the fan and powered it all up to test how much downward airflow I would get from my 4S1P set up. DAMMMMMM, lots of air!!! I have no doubt that this new heatsink will absorb everything the ESC gives it even without the use of the fan while its running. These fans are also whisper quiet and very reliable.





    Last but not least was to attatch the watercooler to the bottom of the ESC and leave it for a few hours for it to cure before it goes back into the hull. This was done simply using some clear silicon.

    Comment

    • Jesse J
      scale FE racer
      • Aug 2008
      • 7116

      #3
      that is sweet, I will have to get me one of them buggers. Makes it look much more impressive!
      "Look good doin' it"
      See the fleet

      Comment

      • ED66677
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2007
        • 1300

        #4
        now it's a monster but if it fits in the hull and gives you good result as I have had with my Mystery 80A one go go go!
        Emmanuel
        I'm french but I doubt I really am!
        http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

        Comment

        • KTM_EXC
          Junior Member
          • Feb 2008
          • 26

          #5
          Hi there,
          just a couple of questions:
          • fan wires are connected to what
          • as the ESC is closed inside the boat and air temp will rise in a fast way, how long your heatsink will be efficient?

          Regards
          Andrea

          Comment

          • exotica
            Senior Member
            • Oct 2009
            • 159

            #6
            ...Emmanuel, the heatsink does fit in the hull and is very snug in between the two lipos. I will be running this however without the fan. Fan will only get clipped on when boat comes out of the water while the batts are charging. I will post up a pic later today after I have finished installing it back in the boat.

            ...Andrea, the fan wires are connected to the positive and negative wires that are run out of the ESC which connect straight into the lipos. Remember this is a 4S1P set up. If you are running anything bigger than this you will have to run a seperate battery pack for the fan if you choose to run it while you run the hull. A small square 9v battery will do the trick and not add to much more weight to your hull. I would have to say that this heatsink would be at least 6x more efficient than the original and thats a 600% improvement maybe more. The maths involved in calculating the efficiency of a heatsink is out of control. Ill post the info up if you wanna give it a go. LOL

            Comment

            • exotica
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 159

              #7
              How we go about Measuring Heatsink Thermal Resistance:

              The most accurate way to determine the thermal resistance of an unknown heatsink is to measure it. The exercise is not trivial though, since you will require a large metal clad resistor having a good flat bottom surface (or you can use transistors), a contact thermometer (a conventional alcohol in glass thermometer cannot be used), and a suitable low voltage, high current power supply. If you have a large number of heatsinks to test it may be worthwhile to build a dedicated test unit, however this is unlikely for most home constructors.

              It is important that the heatsink under test is set up as closely as possible to the way it will be used. There is no point testing a sink just lying on the workbench (for example), as the results will be way off. If a heavy chassis is planned, then attach the heatsink to the chassis or a reasonable facsimile thereof. Ensure that the heating system is in the best possible thermal contact with the heatsink. Thermal compound is essential, and do not use any insulators.

              The test is based on knowing the voltage and current you apply to the heatsink heating system (resistor(s) or transistors), and being able to accurately measure the ambient and heatsink temperatures. First, apply a relatively low power to the heater system of your choice, and wait for the heatsink temperature to stabilise - this could take an hour or more. If the heatsink is too hot or too cold the results will be inaccurate, so slowly (in steps) increase power until the heatsink is at approximately the maximum temperature you feel is reasonable (typically around 50-60°C).

              Measure the ambient temperature and the heatsink temperature, preferably using the same thermometer. A contact thermometer is essential for the heatsink (again, use thermal compound). Determine the temperature difference (temperature rise) between ambient and heatsink.

              Next, determine the power applied to your heating system. Thermal resistance may now be established with some very simple maths ...

              You will use the following terms -
              Tr - Temperature rise
              Ta - Ambient temperature (example 22°C)
              Th - Heatsink temperature (example 54°C)
              Vh - Voltage to heater (example 12V)
              Ih - Current to heater (example 3.5A)
              Ph - Power applied to heatsink
              Rth - Thermal resistance (in °C/W) so ...

              Tr = Th - Ta = 54 - 22 = 32°C
              Ph = Vh * Ih = 12 * 3.5 = 42W
              Rth = Tr / Ph = 32 / 42 = 0.76°C/W
              This is as accurate as you need, and as good as you'll get in real life. To get accurate results is time-consuming, and is usually not necessary once you get a reasonable feel for heatsinks. Once you do this a couple of times you will be able to 'guesstimate' the approximate power handling capacity of a heatsink just by looking at it and checking the manufacturer's data. Bear in mind that few heatsink manufacturers supply the all important temperature rise information, so their figures can be off by 25% in either direction.

              Comment

              • exotica
                Senior Member
                • Oct 2009
                • 159

                #8
                Heres a very handy little tool that saves you a headache and 15 cups of coffee. Measure the approx area you have to work with and find a heatsink to accommodate that area.

                Once you obtain a heat sink punch in the values into this calculator.

                Its a Heatsink Calculator. Can be found here.

                Comment

                • m4a1usr
                  Fast Electric Addict
                  • Nov 2009
                  • 2038

                  #9
                  Some really good stuff Kosta. I like how you adopted the philosophy of more (capacity) is better. Its the safest assumption. Just remember you have a set of stacked FET boards. You are not cooling the inner board. Regardless, I love how clever we seem to proceed. Ingenuity the basis in adaptation. Truely wonderfull!

                  John
                  Change is the one Constant

                  Comment

                  • exotica
                    Senior Member
                    • Oct 2009
                    • 159

                    #10
                    ...thanks John. The boards appear to be stacked on poles in each corner of the ESC. These poles as well as the copper on the boards would act as heat conductors spreading and transfering the heat also. I thought that any heat generated from the middle board would be transfered to the top and bottom boards anyway, with some heat escaping from the space in between. If the bottom and top are cooled it can only be assumed that the ESC should run more efficiently under bigger amp draws. Hopefully one day ide like to run this ESC on a 6S1P configuration on the 9XL and x640 which should give me between 65-70mph. Amp draw on the ESC would be approx 160amps and would be a good test to see just how effective this modification is to prolong the life of an otherwise very cheap ESC. Now im really looking forward to that!!!

                    Comment

                    • izzy7771
                      Member
                      • Sep 2009
                      • 51

                      #11
                      great job. this esc looks very much like the himodel 200 amp i have. i also have a 9xl and use this setup in a sv27. 4s 5s and 6s when i feel like using the rescue boat. lol. just waterproofed and watercooled the existing heatsink. heat never an issue for me but i dont think i am using near as many amps as you plan to. is that esc programmable? i like it!! dont have 200 or 400 to spend on an esc anyway. but there is always that saying you get what you pay for. maybe you can find the way around that. lol. please post your findings when you beat this thing up. thanks and once again great job and great info.

                      Comment

                      • sailr
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Nov 2007
                        • 6927

                        #12
                        where do you get the thermal tape?
                        Mini Cat Racing USA
                        www.minicatracingusa.com

                        Comment

                        • izzy7771
                          Member
                          • Sep 2009
                          • 51

                          #13
                          sailor i just saw some of this stuff on ebay. 100cm x 100cm sheets i searched for thermal adhesive. or thermally conductive adhesive not sure which. i think thats the same stuff. pretty sure i saw the same fan and heatsink as well. looks like the whole project could be done for about 60 bucks to me. esc and all. could be totally wrong so please fill me in if so.

                          Comment

                          • sailr
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Nov 2007
                            • 6927

                            #14
                            I'll check ebay. Sounds like a good plan.
                            Mini Cat Racing USA
                            www.minicatracingusa.com

                            Comment

                            • CornelP
                              Senior Member
                              • May 2009
                              • 745

                              #15
                              Also check these guys... I buy a lot of stuff from them.
                              http://export.farnell.com/t-global/h...eet/dp/1372923

                              They also have these... I am just working on them now.
                              http://export.farnell.com/panasonic/...63v/dp/9696075

                              Comment

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